Aqueous cosmetic composition comprising alkylcellulose, non-volatile oils, at least one wax and at least one gemini surfactant

ABSTRACT

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: at least water, at least alkylcellulose, at least one first hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oil, chosen from: C 10 -C 26  alcohols, preferably monoalcohols; optionally hydroxylated monoesters, diesters or triesters of a C 2 -C 8  monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acid and of a C 2 -C 8  alcohol; esters of a C 2 -C 8  polyol and of one or more C 2 -C 8  carboxylic acids, at least one second non-volatile oil chosen from silicone oils and/or fluoro oils or hydrocarbon-based oils other than the said first oil; at least one particular wax; at least one gemini surfactant of particular formula (I).

The present invention is directed towards proposing cosmeticcompositions comprising alkylcellulose, which are intended in particularfor making up and/or caring for the lips or the skin, especially thelips, which are capable of producing a deposit, especially a makeupdeposit, which shows good cosmetic properties, especially in terms ofcomfort, absence of tack and gloss.

In general, cosmetic compositions need to afford an aesthetic effectwhen applied to the skin and/or the lips, and to maintain this aestheticeffect over time.

Specifically, the production of an aesthetic effect, after applying acosmetic composition, results from an assembly of properties intrinsicto the composition which are expressed in terms of makeup performance,cosmetic properties such as comfort on application (softness of thecomposition, ease of application, glidance on application) and whilewearing the composition (softness of the deposit), satisfactoryhomogeneity, lightness and gloss of the deposit produced with thecomposition.

In particular, the production of a solid composition, for example instick form, which is hard enough not to break during application whileat the same time being easily eroded on application, and which ishomogeneous and stable over time at room temperature and at 45° C., andwhose deposit on the skin or the lips is light and sufficiently glossy,is an ongoing preoccupation of formulators working in the field oflipsticks and other skincare and/or lipcare products (for instancebalms).

Ethylcellulose is already known in cosmetic and/or therapeuticcompositions, as a film-forming agent, for facilitating the formation ofa film on the skin and/or the lips, and for improving the waterresistance of this film.

Unfortunately, ethylcellulose, and alkylcelluloses in general (with analkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms), is of limitedsolubility in the majority of the solvents commonly used in cosmeticand/or dermatological formulations. In general, monoalcohols containingfrom 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, butanol, methanol orisopropanol, are preferred for dissolving sufficient amounts ofethylcellulose in cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions. Evaporationof the C₂-C₈ monoalcohols leads, after application of the correspondingcosmetic composition to the skin or the lips, firstly to concentrationof the deposit and secondly to the formation of a coat on the surface ofthe skin or the lips that has a very good wear property. For example,document WO 96/36310 proposes cosmetic compositions especiallycomprising ethylcellulose dissolved in ethyl alcohol (SDA 38B-190 or SDA40B-190 solvents).

However, these volatile monoalcohols have the drawback of beingpotentially irritant to the skin and/or the lips, and consequently mayprove to be detrimental in the case of repeated use on the skin.

In order to overcome this problem, it has been proposed in document U.S.Pat. No. 5,908, 631 to use, as an alternative to C₂-C₈ monoalcohols, acertain number of solvents for ethylcellulose, such as lanolin oil,certain triglycerides, certain propylene glycol or neopentyl glycolesters, isostearyl lactate, and mixtures thereof.

Unfortunately, replacing these C₂-C₈ monoalcohols, which are volatilecompounds, with these non-volatile solvents may on the other hand proveto be detrimental in terms of comfort and of tackiness of the resultingdeposit. Consequently, there is still a need for cosmetic compositions,which are free of C₂-C₈ monoalcohols, comprising a sufficient amount ofalkylcellulose, and which are capable of forming on the skin and/or thelips a deposit that has gloss and comfort properties and that is nottacky.

There is more particularly a need for compositions for making up and/orcaring for the skin and/or the lips, which are homogeneous and stableover time (especially for 72 hours at 24° C. and for 72 hours at 45°C.), in particular which do not undergo phase separation and which donot form grains, which are easy to apply and which allow the productionof a soft, light, fresh, uniform, non-migrating deposit which, inparticular, is sparingly tacky or non-tacky and satisfactorily glossyand which, in certain embodiments, has satisfactory wear properties.

One aim of the invention is to propose a composition whose texture ishomogeneous, and in particular which does not have any lumps and whichis stable at 24° C. and at 45° C.

The object of the present invention is, precisely, to satisfy theseneeds.

As emerges from the examples presented below, the inventors havediscovered that the abovementioned expectations can be satisfied byformulating the alkylcellulose in the form of a dispersion in water witha mixture of specific oils other than C₂-C₈ monoalcohols.

Thus, according to a first of its aspects, a subject of the presentinvention is a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologicallyacceptable medium:

at least water, preferably at least 5% by weight of water;

at least alkylcellulose, the alkyl residue of which comprises between 1and 6 carbon atoms, preferably between 2 and 6 carbon atoms andpreferably between 2 and 3 carbon atoms, preferably ethylcellulose,preferably at least 5% of ethylcellulose;

at least one first hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oil, chosen from:

-   -   C₁₀-C₂₆ alcohols, preferably monoalcohols;    -   optionally hydroxylated monoesters, diesters or triesters of a        C₂-C₈ monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acid and of a C₂-C₈        alcohol;    -   esters of a C₂-C₈ polyol and of one or more C₂-C₈ carboxylic        acids,

at least one second non-volatile oil chosen from silicone oils and/orfluoro oils or hydrocarbon-based oils other than the said first oil;

at least one wax;

at least one gemini surfactant of formula (I):

in which:

R₁ and R₃ denote, independently of one another, an alkyl radicalcontaining from 1 to 25 carbon atoms;

R₂ denotes a spacer consisting of a linear or branched alkylene chaincontaining from 1 to 12 carbon atoms;

X and Y denote, independently of each other, a group—(C₂H₄O)_(a)—(C₃H₆O)_(b)Z, where:

-   -   Z denotes a hydrogen atom or a radical —CH₂—COOM, —SO₃M,        —P(O)(OM)₂, —C₂H₄—SO₃M, —C₃H₆—SO₃M or —CH₂(CHOH)₄CH₂OH, where M        and M′ represent H or an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal or        ammonium or alkanolammonium ion,    -   a ranges from 0 to 15,    -   b ranges from 0 to 10, and    -   the sum of a+b ranges from 1 to 25; and

n ranges from 1 to 10.

Advantageously, a cosmetic composition according to the invention ishomogeneous, stable (no exudation or phase separation) over time(especially after 72 hours or even 1 month at 24° C. and at 45° C.),easy to apply to the skin and/or the lips, and produces a uniform, soft,fresh deposit that is non-migrating and non-tacky or sparingly tacky,and satisfactorily glossy.

Preferably, the composition is a composition for making up and/or caringfor the skin and/or the lips. According to a preferred embodiment, thecomposition is a lip product. More preferably, the composition accordingto the invention is in the form of a lipstick or a lip balm, preferablyin the form of a butter or a stick. The composition according to theinvention may also be cast in a jar or dish.

The composition according to the invention also concerns a process formaking up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, preferably thelips.

A composition according to the invention also proves to be particularlysuitable for the use of water-soluble dyes.

As emerges from the examples below, the combination of the oils underconsideration according to the invention proves to be particularlyadvantageous for formulating alkylcelluloses, preferably such asethylcellulose, in the said composition.

A composition according to the invention advantageously allows the useof an effective amount of alkylcellulose. For the purposes of thepresent invention, the term “effective amount” means an amount that issufficient to obtain the expected effect, as described previously.

In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises atleast 1% and particularly preferably at least 4% by weight (solids) ofalkylcellulose (preferentially ethylcellulose) relative to the totalweight of the composition.

Particularly preferably, the composition according to the inventioncomprises from 4% to 60% by weight of alkylcellulose (preferablyethylcellulose), more preferably from 5% to 30% by weight and morepreferably still from 5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weightof the composition.

The term “physiologically acceptable medium” is intended to denote amedium that is particularly suitable for the application of acomposition according to the invention to the skin and/or the lips.

According to a first embodiment, the composition according to theinvention may be in the form of a butter (i.e. in the form of a thickcream or a paste). Its texture may be more or less thick. It may then,for example, be cast in a jar or in a dish.

Preferably, when the composition is in the form of a butter or a paste,it has a viscosity at 20° C. of greater than 1 Pa·s. Preferably, it hasa viscosity of between 1 and 25 Pa·s.

Protocol for Measuring the Viscosity:

According to this embodiment, when the composition according to theinvention is in the form of a paste at 20° C. (the term “paste” or“butter” means a composition that is therefore not solid, and whoseviscosity can be measured), its viscosity may be measured according tothe following protocol:

The viscosity measurement is carried out at 20° C., using a RheomatRM180 viscometer equipped with a No. 4 spindle, the measurement beingcarried out after rotating the spindle for 10 minutes (at the end ofwhich time stabilization of the viscosity and of the rotational speed ofthe spindle are observed), at a shear rate of 200 s⁻¹.

The composition according to the invention has at 20° C. a viscosity ofbetween 1 and 25 Pa·s and preferably between 1.5 and 18 Pa·s.

Preferably, the viscosity at 20° C. of a composition according to theinvention is between 2 and 16 Pa·s.

According to a second embodiment, the composition according to theinvention is in solid form, for example in the form of a stick. The term“solid” refers to a composition whose hardness, measured according tothe following protocol, is greater than or equal to 30 Nm⁻¹ at atemperature of 20° C. and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

Protocol for Measuring the Hardness:

The hardness of the composition is measured according to the followingprotocol:

The lipstick is stored at 20° C. for 24 hours before measuring thehardness.

The hardness may be measured at 20° C. via the “cheese wire” method,which consists in transversely cutting a wand of product, which ispreferably a circular cylinder, by means of a rigid tungsten wire 250 μmin diameter, by moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 100mm/minute.

The hardness of the samples of compositions of the invention, expressedin Nm⁻¹, is measured using a DFGS2 tensile testing machine from thecompany Indelco-Chatillon.

The measurement is repeated three times and then averaged. The averageof the three values read using the tensile testing machine mentionedabove, noted Y, is given in grams. This average is converted intonewtons and then divided by L which represents the longest distancethrough which the wire passes. In the case of a cylindrical wand, L isequal to the diameter (in metres).

The hardness is converted into Nm⁻¹ by the equation below:

(Y×10⁻³×9.8)/L

For a measurement at a different temperature, the stick is stored for 24hours at this new temperature before the measurement.

According to a second embodiment, the composition according to theinvention may be in the form of a stick. In particular, when thecomposition is in the form of a stick, for example in the case of astick of lipstick, it has a hardness that is sufficient for the sticknot to break when it is applied to the skin and/or the lips.

According to this measuring method, the composition according to theinvention preferably has a hardness at 20° C. and at atmosphericpressure greater than or equal to 35 Nm⁻¹.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention especially has ahardness at 20° C. of less than 300 Nm⁻¹, especially less than 200 Nm⁻¹and preferably less than 150 Nm⁻¹.

The compositions obtained preferentially have a hardness of between 30and 115 Nm⁻¹ and preferentially between 35 and 80 Nm⁻¹.

Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are in the formof a stick, preferably with a diameter of 12.7 mm.

In particular, when the composition is in the form of a stick, forexample in the case of a stick of lipstick, it has a hardness that issufficient for the stick not to break when it is applied to the skinand/or the lips.

A composition according to the invention is preferably in the form of anemulsion of oil in an aqueous phase, conventionally known as an“oil-in-water emulsion”.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is asolid lipstick, such as a stick of lipstick, a lip balm or a lipstickcast in a dish, for example. The term “balm” means a coloured oruncoloured, solid composition, which is generally intended for caringfor the lips, preferably by means of the presence of a hydrophilicactive agent.

According to one particular embodiment, a composition of the inventioncomprises less than 5% by weight of silicone surfactant(s), inparticular less than 4% by weight, especially less than 3% by weight,more particularly less than 2% by weight and in particular less than 1%by weight, or even is totally free of silicone surfactant.

According to another of its aspects, a subject of the present patentapplication is a cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for thelips and/or the skin, in particular the lips, comprising at least onestep that consists in applying to the lips and/or the skin at least onecomposition as defined previously.

Ethylcellulose

A composition according to the invention comprises at leastalkylcellulose, the alkyl residue of which comprises between 1 and 6carbon atoms, preferably between 2 and 6 carbon atoms and preferablybetween 2 and 3 carbon atoms, preferably ethylcellulose.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the alkylcellulose(preferentially of C₂ to C₆, preferentially ethylcellulose) is presentin a composition according to the invention in a content (solids)ranging from 1% to 60% by weight.

Particularly preferably, the composition according to the inventioncomprises from 4% to 60% by weight of alkylcellulose (preferentially ofC2 to C6), preferably from 4% to 60%, more preferably from 4% to 30% byweight and more preferably still from 5% to 20% by weight, relative tothe total weight of the said composition.

The alkylcellulose is a cellulose alkyl ether comprising a chain formedfrom β-anhydroglucose units linked together via acetal bonds. Eachanhydroglucose unit contains three replaceable hydroxyl groups, all orsome of these hydroxyl groups being able to react according to thefollowing reaction:

RONa+C₂H₅Cl→ROC₂H₅+NaCl, in which R represents a cellulose radical.

Advantageously, the alkylcellulose is chosen from methylcellulose,ethylcellulose and propylcellulose.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the alkylcelluloseis ethylcellulose.

It is a cellulose ethyl ether.

Total substitution of the three hydroxyl groups would lead for eachanhydroglucose unit to a degree of substitution of 3, in other words toa content of alkoxy groups of 54.88%.

The ethylcellulose polymers used in a cosmetic composition according tothe invention are preferentially polymers with a degree of substitutionwith ethoxy groups ranging from 2.5 to 2.6 per anhydroglucose unit, inother words comprising a content of ethoxy groups ranging from 44% to50%.

According to a preferred mode, the alkylcellulose (preferablyethylcellulose) is used in a composition of the invention in the form ofparticles dispersed in an aqueous phase, like a dispersion of latex orpseudolatex type. The techniques for preparing these latex dispersionsare well known to those skilled in the art.

The product sold by the company FMC Biopolymer under the name AquacoatECD-30, which consists of a dispersion of ethylcellulose at a rate ofabout 26.2% by weight in water and stabilized with sodium lauryl sulfateand cetyl alcohol, is most particularly suitable for use as an aqueousdispersion of ethylcellulose.

According to one particular embodiment, the aqueous dispersion ofethylcellulose, in particular the product Aquacoat ECD, may be used in aproportion of from 3% to 90% by weight, in particular from 10% to 60% byweight and preferably from 15% to 50% by weight of ethylcellulosedispersion relative to the total weight of the composition.

As mentioned previously, the alkylcellulose is used according to thepresent invention in combination with a mixture of oils as describedmore particularly hereinbelow.

Physiologically Acceptable Medium

Besides the compounds indicated previously, a composition according tothe invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium.

The term “physiologically acceptable medium” is intended to denote amedium that is particularly suitable for applying a composition of theinvention to the skin and/or the lips, for instance water, the oils ororganic solvents commonly used in cosmetic compositions.

The physiologically acceptable medium (acceptable tolerance, toxicologyand feel) is generally adapted to the nature of the support onto whichthe composition is to be applied, and also to the form in which thecomposition is to be conditioned.

Fatty Phase

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one fattyphase and especially a liquid fatty phase, at least a first specifichydrocarbon-based non-volatile oil and at least a second non-volatileoil chosen from silicone oils and/or fluoro oils or hydrocarbon-basedoils other than the said first oil. The term “oil” means awater-immiscible non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature(25° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

Specific First Hydrocarbon-Based Non-Volatile Oil

The composition according to the invention comprises one or more firsthydrocarbon-based non-volatile oil(s), chosen from:

-   -   C₁₀-C₂₆ alcohols, preferably monoalcohols;    -   optionally hydroxylated monoesters, diesters or triesters of a        C₂-C₈ monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acid and of a C₂-C₈        alcohol;    -   esters of a C₂-C₈ polyol and of one or more C₂-C₈ carboxylic        acids.

The term “non-volatile” refers to an oil whose vapour pressure at roomtemperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and is less than 0.02mmHg (2.66 Pa) and better still less than 10⁻³ mmHg (0.13 Pa).

Preferably, the said “first oil” is chosen from:

-   -   C₁₀-C₂₆ monoalcohols;    -   optionally hydroxylated monoesters of a C₂-C₈ carboxylic acid        and of a C₂-C₈ alcohol;    -   optionally hydroxylated diesters of a C₂-C₈ dicarboxylic acid        and of a C₂-C₈ alcohol;    -   optionally hydroxylated triesters of a C₂-C₈ tricarboxylic acid        and of a C₂-C₈ alcohol;    -   esters of a C₂-C₈ polyol and of one or more C₂-C₈ carboxylic        acids.

The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” means an oil formed essentially from,constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen atoms,and free of heteroatoms such as N, Si, F and P. The hydrocarbon-basedoil is thus different from a silicone oil or a fluoro oil.

In the present case, the said first oils comprise at least one oxygenatom.

In particular, the said first non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oilcomprises at least one alcohol function (it is then an “alcohol oil”)and/or at least one ester function (it is then an “ester oil”).

The ester oils that may be used in the compositions according to theinvention may especially be hydroxylated.

According to one particular embodiment, a composition according to theinvention comprises one or more first non-volatile hydrocarbon-basedoil(s) in a content ranging from 5% to 75%, in particular from 10% to50% by weight and preferably from 20% to 45% by weight relative to itstotal weight.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the non-volatilehydrocarbon-based oil and the alkylcellulose (in particularethylcellulose) are used in the composition according to the inventionin a “non-volatile hydrocarbon-based first oil(s)/alkylcellulose” weightratio of between 0.5 and 20 and preferably between 1 and 15.Particularly preferably, the “non-volatile hydrocarbon-based firstoil(s)/alkylcellulose” weight ratio is between 2 and 10.

More particularly, the first non-volatile hydrocarbon-based first oilused in a composition according to the invention may especially haveplasticizing properties, i.e. it can impart suppleness and comfort tothe deposit formed with the composition according to the invention.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the said first oil isa C₁₀-C₂₆ alcohol, preferably a monoalcohol, which is preferablybranched when it comprises at least 16 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the C₁₀-C₂₆ alcohols are saturated or unsaturated, andbranched or unbranched, and comprise from 10 to 26 carbon atoms.Preferably, the C₁₀-C₂₆ alcohols are fatty alcohols, which arepreferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms.

As examples of fatty alcohols that may be used according to theinvention, mention may be made of linear or branched fatty alcohols, ofsynthetic origin or alternatively of natural origin, for instancealcohols derived from plant material (coconut, palm kernel, palm, etc.)or animal material (tallow, etc.). Needless to say, other long-chainalcohols may also be used, for instance ether alcohols or Guerbetalcohols. Finally, use may also be made of certain more or less longfractions of alcohols of natural origin, for instance coconut (C₁₂ toC₁₆) or tallow (C₁₆ to C₁₈) or compounds of diol or cholesterol type.

Use is preferably made of a fatty alcohol comprising from 10 to 24carbon atoms and more preferentially from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

As particular examples of preferred fatty alcohols that may be used inthe context of the present invention, mention may be made especially oflauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol,oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol,2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol and octyldodecanol, and mixturesthereof.

Preferably, the said first oil is chosen from octyldodecanol andisostearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the said “first oil” is octyldodecanol.

According to a second embodiment, the said first oil is an ester oilchosen from:

-   -   optionally hydroxylated monoesters of a C₂-C₈ carboxylic acid        and of a C₂-C₈ alcohol;    -   optionally hydroxylated diesters of a C₂-C₈ dicarboxylic acid        and of a C₂-C₈ alcohol; such as diisopropyl adipate,        2-diethylhexyl adipate, dibutyl adipate or diisostearyl adipate,    -   optionally hydroxylated triesters of a C₂-C₈ tricarboxylic acid        and of a C₂-C₈ alcohol, such as citric acid esters, such as        trioctyl citrate, triethyl citrate, acetyl tributyl citrate,        tributyl citrate or acetyl tributyl citrate,    -   esters of a C₂-C₈ polyol and of one or more C₂-C₈ carboxylic        acids, such as glycol diesters of monoacids, such as neopentyl        glycol diheptanoate, or glycol triesters of monoacids, such as        triacetin.        Second Non-Volatile Silicone Oil and/or Fluoro Oil or        Hydrocarbon-Based Oil Other than the Said First Oil

According to one of its aspects, a composition according to theinvention comprises at least a second non-volatile oil chosen fromsilicone oils and/or fluoro oils and/or hydrocarbon-based oils otherthan the said first oil.

The term “non-volatile” refers to an oil whose vapour pressure at roomtemperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and is less than 0.02mmHg (2.66 Pa) and better still less than 10⁻³ mmHg (0.13 Pa).

Preferably, the non-volatile oil(s) chosen from silicone oils and/orfluoro oils or hydrocarbon-based oil other than the said first oil arepresent in a total content ranging from 5% to 75% by weight, preferablyfrom 8% to 40% by weight or alternatively from 10% to 30% by weightrelative to the total weight of the said composition.

According to one particular embodiment, a composition according to theinvention comprises one or more non-volatile silicone oils (preferablyphenyl silicone oils) and/or non-volatile fluoro oils orhydrocarbon-based oil other than the said first oil, in a proportion ofat least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,especially from 5% to 75% by weight and particularly preferably from 10%to 45% by weight.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the compositioncomprises a total content of non-volatile oils (i.e. all thenon-volatile oils of the composition, irrespective of their nature) ofbetween 40% and 80% by weight and preferably between 45% and 75% byweight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the non-volatile oils(i.e. all the non-volatile oils of the composition, irrespective oftheir nature) and the alkylcellulose are used in the compositionaccording to the invention in a non-volatile oil(s)/alkylcelluloseweight ratio of between 1 and 20 and preferably between 4 and 15.

According to one preferred embodiment, the said second oil is chosenfrom silicone oils and/or fluoro oils.

Non-Volatile Silicone Oil

According to a first preferred embodiment, the non-volatile oil is asilicone oil.

The term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one siliconatom.

The non-volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention may bechosen especially from silicone oils especially with a viscosity at 25°C. of greater than or equal to 9 centistokes (cSt) (9×10⁻⁶ m²/s) andless than 800 000 cSt, preferably between 50 and 600 000 cSt andpreferably between 100 and 500 000 cSt. The viscosity of this siliconeoil may be measured according to standard ASTM D-445.

According to a first embodiment, the non-volatile silicone oil is anon-phenyl silicone oil.

The non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oil may be chosen from:

-   -   non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS),    -   PDMSs comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, which are pendent        and/or at the end of the silicone chain, these groups each        containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms,    -   PDMSs comprising aliphatic and/or aromatic groups, or functional        groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups,    -   polyalkylmethylsiloxanes optionally substituted with a fluoro        group, such as polymethyltrifluoropropyldimethylsiloxanes,    -   polyalkylmethylsiloxanes substituted with functional groups such        as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups,    -   polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or        polyoxyalkylenes, and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, a composition according to the inventioncontains at least one non-phenyl silicone oil, in particular such as alinear (i.e. non-cyclic) oil.

Representative examples of these non-volatile non-phenyl linear siliconeoils that may be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyldimethicones; vinyl methyl methicones; and also silicones modified withoptionally fluorinated aliphatic groups, or with functional groups suchas hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups.

The non-phenyl silicone oil may be chosen especially from the siliconesof formula (I):

in which:

R₁, R₂, R₅ and R₆ are, together or separately, an alkyl radicalcontaining 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

R₃ and R₄ are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing from1 to 6 carbon atoms, a vinyl radical, an amine radical or a hydroxylradical,

X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxylradical or an amine radical,

n and p are integers chosen so as to have a fluid compound, inparticular whose viscosity at 25° C. is between 9 centistokes (cSt)(9×10⁻⁶ m²/s) and 800 000 cSt.

As non-volatile silicone oils that may be used according to theinvention, mention may be made of the compounds of formula (I) forwhich:

-   -   the substituents R₁ to R₆ and X represent a methyl group, and p        and n are such that the viscosity is 500 000 cSt, such as the        product sold under the name SE30 by the company General        Electric, the product sold under the name AK 500000 by the        company Wacker, the product sold under the name Mirasil DM 500        000 by the company Bluestar, and the product sold under the name        Dow Corning 200 Fluid 500 000 cSt by the company Dow Corning,

the substituents R₁ to R₆ and X represent a methyl group, and p and nare such that the viscosity is 60 000 cSt, such as the product soldunder the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 60000 CS by the company DowCorning, and the product sold under the name Wacker Belsil DM 60 000 bythe company Wacker,

-   -   the substituents R₁ to R₆ and X represent a methyl group, and p        and n are such that the viscosity is 350 cSt, such as the        product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 350 CS by the        company Dow Corning,    -   the substituents R₁ to R₆ represent a methyl group, the group X        represents a hydroxyl group, and n and p are such that the        viscosity is 700 cSt, such as the product sold under the name        Baysilone Fluid T0.7 by the company Momentive.

According to a second embodiment, a composition according to theinvention contains at least one non-volatile phenyl silicone oil assecond non-volatile oil.

Representative examples of these non-volatile phenyl silicone oils thatmay be mentioned include:

-   -   the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula:

in which the groups R represent, independently of each other, a methylor a phenyl, with the proviso that at least one group R represents aphenyl. Preferably, in this formula, the phenyl silicone oil comprisesat least three phenyl groups, for example at least four, at least fiveor at least six.

-   -   the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula:

in which the groups R represent, independently of each other, a methylor a phenyl, with the proviso that at least one group R represents aphenyl.

Preferably, in this formula, the said organopolysiloxane comprises atleast three phenyl groups, for example at least four or at least five.Mixtures of the phenyl organopolysiloxanes described previously may beused. Examples that may be mentioned include mixtures of triphenyl,tetraphenyl or pentaphenyl organopolysiloxanes.

-   -   the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula:

in which Me represents methyl, Ph represents phenyl. Such a phenylsilicone is especially manufactured by Dow Corning under the referencePH-1555 HRI or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name:1,3,5-trimethyl-1,1,3,5,5-pentaphenyl trisiloxane; INCI name: trimethylpentaphenyl trisiloxane). The reference Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluidmay also be used.

-   -   the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula:

in which Me represents methyl, y is between 1 and 1000 and X represents—CH₂—CH(CH₃)(Ph).

-   -   the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (V) below:

in which Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR′ represents a group —OSiMe₃and y is 0 or ranges between 1 and 1000, and z ranges between 1 and1000, such that compound (V) is a non-volatile oil.

According to a first embodiment, y ranges between 1 and 1000. Use may bemade, for example, of trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, soldespecially under the reference Belsil PDM 1000 sold by the companyWacker.

According to a second embodiment, y is equal to 0. Use may be made, forexample, of phenyl trimethylsiloxy trisiloxane, sold especially underthe reference Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid,

-   -   the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (VI) below,        and mixtures thereof:

in which:

-   -   R₁ to R₁₀, independently of each other, are saturated or        unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C₁-C₃₀ hydrocarbon-based        radicals,    -   m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers between        0 and 900, with the proviso that the sum m+n+q is other than 0.

Preferably, the sum m+n+q is between 1 and 100. Preferably, the summ+n+p+q is between 1 and 900 and better still between 1 and 800.Preferably, q is equal to 0.

-   -   the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (VII) below,        and mixtures thereof:

in which:

-   -   R₁ to R₆, independently of each other, are saturated or        unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C₁-C₃₀ hydrocarbon-based        radicals,    -   m, n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 0        and 100, with the proviso that the sum n+m is between 1 and 100.

Preferably, R₁ to R₆, independently of each other, represent asaturated, linear or branched C₁-C₃₀ and especially C₁-C₁₂hydrocarbon-based radical and in particular a methyl, ethyl, propyl orbutyl radical.

R₁ to R₆ may especially be identical, and in addition may be a methylradical.

Preferably, m=1 or 2 or 3, and/or n=0 and/or p=0 or 1 may apply, informula (VII).

-   -   the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (VIII), and        mixtures thereof:

in which:

-   -   R is a C₁-C₃₀ alkyl radical, an aryl radical or an aralkyl        radical,    -   n is an integer ranging from 0 to 100, and    -   m is an integer ranging from 0 to 100, with the proviso that the        sum n+m ranges from 1 to 100.

In particular, the radicals R of formula (VIII) and R₁ to R₁₀ definedpreviously may each represent a linear or branched, saturated orunsaturated alkyl radical, especially of C₂-C₂₀, in particular C₃-C₁₆and more particularly C₄-C₁₀, or a monocyclic or polycyclic C₆-C₁₄ andespecially C₁₀-C₁₃ aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical whose aryl andalkyl residues are as defined previously.

Preferably, R of formula (VIII) and R₁ to R₁₀ may each represent amethyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical,or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.

According to one embodiment, a phenyl silicone oil of formula (VIII)with a viscosity at 25° C. of between 5 and 1500 mm²/s (i.e. 5 to 1500cSt), and preferably with a viscosity of between 5 and 1000 mm²/s (i.e.5 to 1000 cSt) may be used.

Phenyl silicone oils that may especially be used include the phenyltrimethicones of formula (VIII), such as DC556 from Dow Corning (22.5cSt), the oil Silbione 70663V30 from Rhone-Poulenc (28 cSt) or diphenyldimethicones such as Belsil oils, especially Belsil PDM1000 (1000 cSt),Belsil PDM 200 (200 cSt) and Belsil PDM 20 (20 cSt) from Wacker. Thevalues in parentheses represent the viscosities at 25° C.

-   -   the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula,        and mixtures thereof:

in which:

-   -   R₁, R₂, R₅ and R₆ are, together or separately, an alkyl radical        containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,    -   R₃ and R₄ are, together or separately, an alkyl radical        containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or an aryl radical,    -   X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a        hydroxyl radical or a vinyl radical,    -   n and p being chosen so as to give the oil a weight-average        molecular mass of less than 200 000 g/mol, preferably less than        150 000 g/mol and more preferably less than 100 000 g/mol.    -   Preferably, the phenyl silicones are more particularly chosen        from phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones,        phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones,        diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl        trimethylsiloxysilicates, and mixtures thereof.

More particularly, the phenyl silicones are chosen from phenyltrimethicones, phenyl dimethicones,phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones,diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the weight-average molecular weight of the non-volatilephenyl silicone oil according to the invention ranges from 500 to 10 000g/mol.

Preferably, the non-volatile silicone oil is chosen from:

-   -   phenyl silicones (also known as phenyl silicone oil) such as        trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone (for instance Belsil PDM 1000        from the company Wacker (MW=9000 g/mol) (cf formula (V) above),        phenyl trimethicones (such as the phenyl trimethicone sold under        the trade name DC556 by Dow Corning), phenyl dimethicones,        phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones,        diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl        trimethylsiloxysilicates, trimethylpentaphenyl trisiloxane (such        as the product sold under the name Dow Corning PH-1555 HRI        Cosmetic fluid by Dow Corning) (cf. formula (III) above),    -   non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes        comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, which are pendent and/or at        the end of the silicone chain, these groups each containing from        2 to 24 carbon atoms,    -   and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the second non-volatile oil is a phenyl silicone oil.

Preferably, a phenyl silicone oil is used. According to one preferredembodiment, the phenyl silicone oil is chosen from trimethylsiloxyphenyldimethicones.

According to one preferred embodiment, the non-volatile silicone oil(s)are present in a total content ranging from 5% to 75% by weight, inparticular from 8% to 40% by weight and preferably from 10% to 30% byweight relative to the total weight of the said composition.

Non-Volatile Fluoro Oil

According to a second embodiment, the second non-volatile oil is afluoro oil.

The term “fluoro oil” means an oil containing at least one fluorineatom.

The fluoro oils that may be used according to the invention may bechosen from fluorosilicone oils, fluoro polyethers and fluorosiliconesas described in document EP-A-847 752, and perfluoro compounds.

According to the invention, the term “perfluoro compounds” meanscompounds in which all the hydrogen atoms have been replaced withfluorine atoms.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the fluoro oilaccording to the invention is chosen from perfluoro oils.

As examples of perfluoro oils that may be used in the invention, mentionmay be made of perfluorodecalins and perfluoroperhydrophenanthrenes.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the fluoro oil ischosen from perfluoroperhydrophenanthrenes, and especially the Fiflow®products sold by the company Creations Couleurs. In particular, use maybe made of the fluoro oil for which the INCI name isPerfluoroperhydrophenanthrene, sold under the reference Fiflow 220 bythe company F2 Chemicals.

According to a third embodiment, the said second non-volatile oil is ahydrocarbon-based oil, which is different from the said first oil.

According to a first embodiment, the second non-volatilehydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from apolar hydrocarbon-based oils.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “apolar oil” meansan oil whose solubility parameter at 25° C., δ_(a), is equal to 0(J/cm³)^(1/2).

The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in theHansen three-dimensional solubility space are described in the paper byC. M. Hansen: “The three-dimensional solubility parameters”, J. PaintTechnol., 39, 105 (1967).

According to this Hansen space:

-   -   δ_(D) characterizes the London dispersion forces derived from        the formation of dipoles induced during molecular impacts;    -   δ_(p) characterizes the Debye interaction forces between        permanent dipoles and also the Keesom interaction forces between        induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;    -   δ_(h) characterizes the specific interaction forces (such as        hydrogen bonding, acid/base, donor/acceptor, etc.); and    -   δ_(a) is determined by the equation: δ_(a)=(δ_(p) ²δ_(h)        ²)^(1/2).

The parameters δ_(p), δ_(h), δ_(D) and δ_(a) are expressed in(J/cm³)^(1/2).

Preferably, the non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil is free ofoxygen atoms.

Preferably, the non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil may be chosenfrom linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin,such as:

-   -   liquid paraffin or derivatives thereof,    -   liquid petroleum jelly,    -   naphthalene oil,    -   polybutylenes such as Indopol H-100 (molar mass or MW=965        g/mol), Indopol H-300 (MW=1340 g/mol) and Indopol H-1500        (MW=2160 g/mol) sold or manufactured by the company Amoco,    -   hydrogenated polyisobutylenes such as Parleam® sold by the        company Nippon Oil Fats, Panalane H-300 E sold or manufactured        by the company Amoco (MW=1340 g/mol), Viseal 20000 sold or        manufactured by the company Synteal (MW=6000 g/mol) and Rewopal        PIB 1000 sold or manufactured by the company Witco (MW=1000        g/mol),    -   decene/butene copolymers, polybutene/polyisobutene copolymers,        especially Indopol L-14,    -   polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes such as: Puresyn 10        (MW=723 g/mol) and Puresyn 150 (MW=9200 g/mol) sold or        manufactured by the company Mobil Chemicals,    -   and mixtures thereof.

According to a second embodiment, the second non-volatilehydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from polar hydrocarbon-based oils otherthan the said “first oil”.

In particular, the said second polar non-volatile oil other than thesaid first oil may be an ester oil, in particular containing between 18and 70 carbon atoms.

Examples that may be mentioned include monoesters, diesters ortriesters.

The ester oils may especially be hydroxylated.

The non-volatile ester oil is preferably chosen from:

-   -   monoesters comprising between 18 and 40 carbon atoms in total,        in particular the monoesters of formula R₁COOR₂ in which R₁        represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue comprising        from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R₂ represents a hydrocarbon-based        chain, which is especially branched, containing from 4 to 40        carbon atoms, on condition that R₁+R₂≧18, for instance Purcellin        oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C₁₂ to C₁₅        alkyl benzoates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl        neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate,        isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, alcohol or        polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, isopropyl        myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate,        2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl        palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate or 2-diethylhexyl succinate.        Preferably, they are esters of formula R₁COOR₂ in which R₁        represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing        from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R₂ represents a hydrocarbon-based        chain that is especially branched, containing from 4 to 40        carbon atoms provided that R₁+R₂≧18. Preferably, the ester        comprises between 18 and 40 carbon atoms in total. Preferred        monoesters that may be mentioned include isononyl isononanoate,        oleyl erucate and/or 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate;    -   diesters, especially comprising between 18 and 60 carbon atoms        in total and in particular between 18 and 50 carbon atoms in        total. It is especially possible to use diesters of dicarboxylic        acids and of monoalcohols, preferably such as diisostearyl        malate, or glycol diesters of monocarboxylic acids, such as        neopentyl glycol diheptanoate or poly-2-glyceryl diisostearate        (especially such as the compound sold under the trade reference        Dermol DGDIS by the company Alzo);    -   triesters, especially comprising between 35 and 70 carbon atoms        in total, in particular such as triesters of a tricarboxylic        acid, such as triisostearyl citrate, or tridecyl trimellitate,        or glycol triesters of monocarboxylic acids such as        poly-2-glyceryl triisostearate;    -   tetraesters, especially with a total carbon number ranging from        35 to 70, such as pentaerythritol or polyglycerol tetraesters of        a monocarboxylic acid, for instance pentaerythrityl        tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate,        pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl        tris(2-decyl)tetradecanoate, poly-2-glyceryl tetraisostearate or        pentaerythrityl tetrakis(2-decyl)tetradecanoate;    -   polyesters obtained by condensation of an unsaturated fatty acid        dimer and/or trimer and of diol, such as those described in        patent application FR 0 853 634, in particular such as        dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. Mention may especially be        made in this respect of the polymer sold by Biosynthis under the        name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid/butanediol        copolymer), or copolymers of polyols and of diacid dimers, and        esters thereof, such as Hailuscent ISDA;    -   esters and polyesters of diol dimer and of monocarboxylic or        dicarboxylic acid, such as esters of diol dimer and of fatty        acid and esters of diol dimer and of dicarboxylic acid dimer, in        particular which may be obtained from a dicarboxylic acid dimer        derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated        fatty acid especially of C₈ to C₃₄, especially of C₁₂ to C₂₂, in        particular of C₁₆ to C₂₀ and more particularly of C₁₈, such as        esters of dilinoleic diacids and of dilinoleic diol dimers, for        instance those sold by the company Nippon Fine Chemical under        the trade names Lusplan DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®;    -   vinylpyrrolidone/1-hexadecene copolymers, for instance the        product sold under the name Antaron V-216 (also known as Ganex        V216) by the company ISP (MW=7300 g/mol),    -   hydrocarbon-based plant oils such as fatty acid triglycerides        (which are liquid at room temperature), especially of fatty        acids containing from 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or        octanoic acid triglycerides or jojoba oil; mention may be made        in particular of saturated triglycerides such as caprylic/capric        triglycerides and mixtures thereof, for instance the product        sold under the reference Myritol 318 from Cognis, glyceryl        triheptanoate, glyceryl trioctanoate, and C₁₈₋₃₆ acid        triglycerides such as those sold under the reference Dub TGI 24        sold by Stéarineries Dubois,        and unsaturated triglycerides such as castor oil, olive oil,        ximenia oil and pracaxi oil;    -   and mixtures thereof.

Additional Oils

The composition according to the invention may comprise, besides thenon-volatile hydrocarbon-based “first oil” and besides the non-volatile“second oil” chosen from silicone oils and/or fluoro oils orhydrocarbon-based oils other than the said first oil, at least oneadditional oil other than these oils.

In particular, the additional oil may be chosen from volatile oils, inparticular volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, volatile silicone oilsand/or volatile fluoro oils.

For the purposes of the invention, the term “volatile oil” means an oilthat is capable of evaporating on contact with keratin materials in lessthan one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).The volatile organic solvent(s) and volatile oils of the invention arevolatile organic solvents and cosmetic oils that are liquid at roomtemperature, with a non-zero vapour pressure at room temperature andatmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa(10⁻³ to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01to 10 mmHg).

The additional volatile oil may especially be a silicone oil, ahydrocarbon-based oil, which is preferably apolar, or a fluoro oil.

According to a first embodiment, the additional volatile oil is asilicone oil and may be chosen especially from silicone oils with aflash point ranging from 40° C. to 102° C., preferably with a flashpoint of greater than 55° C. and less than or equal to 95° C., andpreferentially ranging from 65° C. to 95° C.

As additional volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention,mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicones with a viscosity atroom temperature of less than 8 centistokes (cSt) (8×10⁻⁶ m²/s), andespecially containing from 2 to 10 silicon atoms and in particular from2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl oralkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile siliconeoils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made especiallyof dimethicones with viscosities of 5 and 6 cSt,octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane,dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane,heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane,octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane anddodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

According to a second embodiment, the additional volatile oil is afluoro oil, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane orperfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof.

According to a third embodiment, the additional volatile oil is ahydrocarbon-based oil, which is preferably apolar.

The additional apolar volatile hydrocarbon-based oil may have a flashpoint ranging from 40° C. to 102° C., preferably ranging from 40° C. to55° C. and preferentially ranging from 40° C. to 50° C.

The additional hydrocarbon-based volatile oil may especially be chosenfrom hydrocarbon-based volatile oils containing from 8 to 16 carbonatoms, and mixtures thereof, and especially:

-   -   branched C₈-C₁₆ alkanes such as C₈-C₁₆ isoalkanes (also known as        isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and,        for example, the oils sold under the trade name Isopar or        Permethyl,    -   linear alkanes, for example such as n-dodecane (C12) and        n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the references,        respectively, Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, and also mixtures        thereof, the undecane-tridecane mixture (Cetiol UT), mixtures of        n-undecane (C11) and of n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1        and 2 of patent application WO 2008/155 059 from the company        Cognis, and mixtures thereof.

According to one particular embodiment, the additional volatile oil(s)may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight andespecially from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight ofthe said composition.

Advantageously, the composition contains less than 10% by weight ofmonoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, and preferably lessthan 5%. According to one particular embodiment, the composition may befree of monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition is free ofadditional volatile oil.

According to one particular embodiment, the composition comprises atotal content of non-volatile oil(s) ranging from 10% to 90% by weight,preferably ranging from 20% to 80% by weight and more preferably from35% to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition comprises between 4% and 30% by weight ofalkylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose, between 15% and 50% by weightof water and between 35% and 75% by weight of non-volatile oils.

Solid Fatty Substances:

Wax(es)

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one wax.

For the purposes of the invention, the term “wax” means a lipophiliccompound, which is solid at room temperature (25° C.), with a reversiblesolid/liquid change of state, which has a melting point of greater thanor equal to 30° C., which may be up to 120° C.

The waxes that may be used in a composition according to the inventionare chosen from solid waxes that may or may not be deformable at roomtemperature of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixturesthereof.

Hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance beeswax, lanolin wax or Chineseinsect wax; rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax,esparto grass wax, cork fibre wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax and sumachwax; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite;polyethylene waxes, polymethylene waxes, the waxes obtained byFisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof,may especially be used.

Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation ofanimal or plant oils containing linear or branched C₈-C₃₂ fatty chains.

Among these waxes that may especially be mentioned are hydrogenatedjojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil,hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil,bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate sold under the name Hest2T-4S by the company Heterene, and bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane)tetrabehenate sold under the name Hest 2T-4B by the company Heterene.

Waxes that may also be mentioned include silicone waxes (C₃₀₋₄₅ alkyldimethicone) and fluoro waxes.

Waxes that may also be used include those obtained by hydrogenation ofcastor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, sold under the names Phytowaxricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim. Such waxes are describedin patent application FR-A-2 792 190.

A wax that may be used is a C₂₀-C₄₀ alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate(the alkyl group containing from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as amixture. Such a wax is especially sold under the names Kester Wax K 82P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P® and Kester Wax K 80 P® by the companyKoster Keunen.

Preferably, the said wax(es) are chosen from waxes whose melting point(Tm) is less than or equal to 66° C. and preferably less than or equalto 65° C.

Preferably, the wax with a Tm of less than or equal to 66° C. andpreferably less than or equal to 65° C. is chosen from: candelilla wax(64.3° C.), polyglycerolated beeswax (63.1° C.), ceresin wax (60.1° C.),Ultrabee WD (61.3° C.), pentaerythrityl tetrastearate (63.0° C.),tetracontanyl stearate (65.1° C.), fatty acid wax (63.7° C.); beeswax(62.6° C.), Montan wax (63.4° C.), sucrose polybehenate (64.1° C.),Koster KPC-60 (61.7° C.), Koster KPC-63 (65.2° C.), the hydrogenatedesters of olive oil and of stearyl alcohol (57° C.) sold under thereference Phytowax Olive 18 L 57 by the company Sophim, the hydrogenatedpalm oil sold under the reference GV 60 by SIO (ADM), the polymethylenewax (54° C.) sold under the reference Cirebelle 303 by Cirebelle; thepolymethylene wax (40° C.) sold under the reference Cirebelle 505 byCirebelle, the glyceryl tribehenate (60° C.) sold under the referenceSyncrowax HRC-PA-(MH) by Croda, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition may comprise at least one polymethylene wax,preferably chosen from the polymethylene wax (54° C.) sold under thereference Cirebelle 303 by Cirebelle; the polymethylene wax (40° C.)sold under the reference Cirebelle 505 by Cirebelle.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the composition isfree of wax with a Tm of greater than 66° C.

The reason for this is that during the preparation of a compositionaccording to the invention, the introduction of a wax with a Tm ofgreater than 66° C., for instance polyethylene wax, microcrystalline waxor carnauba wax, may lead to the formation of lumps and balls, and thusprevent the production of a smooth, homogeneous composition.

Illustrations of such waxes are especially carnauba wax (82.3° C.),ozokerite (66.8° C.), microcrystalline wax (83.3° C.), the polyethylenewax sold, for example, under the name Asensa SC 211 by Honeywell (95.6°C.), the wax AC 540 (98.4° C.), hydroxyoctacosanyl hydroxystearate(76.8° C.), hydrogenated castor waxes (81.7° C.), the wax AC400 (86.3°C.), the polyethylene wax sold, for example, under the name Performalene500-L Polyethylene from New Phase Technologies (77.3° C.), hydrogenatedjojoba wax (69.4° C.), rice bran wax (78.6° C.), the tricontanyl/PVPcopolymer (68.8° C.), octacosanyl stearate (72.5° C.), the polyethylenewax sold, for example, under the name Performalene 400 Polyethylene fromNew Phase Technologies (71.8° C.), the polyethylene wax sold, forexample, under the name Performalene 655 Polyethylene from New PhaseTechnologies (92.9° C.), polyethylenated alcohol wax (95.7° C.), KosterK82P (69.6° C.), polymethylalkyl dimethylsiloxane (67.8° C.),polyethylene related alcohol wax (76.2° C.), Fischer-Tropsch wax (79.3°C.), behenyl alcohol (66.9° C.), Chinese insect wax (81.1° C.), shellacwax (73.8° C.), behenyl fumarate (74.5° C.), didotricontanyl distearate(70.7° C.), Betawax RX-13750 (72.0° C.), dipentaerythrityl hexastearate(67.7° C.), ditrimethylolpropane tetrabehenate (67.5° C.), PhytowaxRicin 16 L 64 (69.1° C.), Phytowax Ricin 22 L 73 (76.6° C.), ouricurywax (81.0° C.), and mixtures thereof.

Emulsifying Silicone Wax:

According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to theinvention comprises at least one emulsifying silicone wax, preferablysuch as the product INCI whose name is BIS-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethylsilane, sold especially under the reference Dow Corning 2501 CosmeticWax by Dow Corning.

The composition according to the invention may comprise from 1% to 20%by weight and better still between 2% and 15%, by total weight, of thisemulsifying silicone wax relative to the total weight of thecomposition.

Preferably, the wax is chosen from candelilla wax and/or polymethylenewax, and/or the wax BIS-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane; andmixtures thereof.

Preferably, the wax is a polymethylene wax.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to theinvention comprises at least two waxes, preferably polymethylene wax andcandelilla wax.

Preferably, according to this embodiment, the waxes are present in apolymethylene wax/candelilla wax ratio of between 0.5 and 10 andpreferably between 1 and 5.

Preferably, the total wax content is between 0.5% and 30% by weight andespecially between 1% and 25% by weight, relative to the total weight ofthe composition.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the compositionaccording to the invention may be in the form of a stick. Preferably,according to this embodiment, the composition comprises at leastcandelilla wax. The reason for this is that this wax is particularlysuitable for structuring the composition according to the invention andfor obtaining a solid composition, preferably whose hardness is greaterthan 30 Nm⁻¹; according to the measuring protocol described previously.

In particular, when the composition is in the form of a stick, forexample in the case of a stick of lipstick, it has a hardness that issufficient for the stick not to break when it is applied to the skinand/or the lips.

Additional Fatty Substance:

Besides the oils and the candelilla waxes described previously, thecomposition under consideration according to the invention may alsocomprise at least one additional fatty substance, in particular at leastone pasty fatty substance.

Pasty Fatty Substances

The composition under consideration according to the invention may alsocomprise at least one pasty fatty substance.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “pasty fattysubstance” (also known as pasty fatty substance) means a lipophilicfatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid change of state,exhibiting an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state,and comprising, at a temperature of 23° C., a liquid fraction and asolid fraction.

In other words, the starting melting point of the pasty compound can beless than 23° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at23° C., can represent from 9% to 97% by weight of the compound. Thisliquid fraction at 23° C. preferably represents between 15% and 85% andmore preferably between 40% and 85% by weight.

Within the meaning of the invention, the melting point corresponds tothe temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermalanalysis (DSC) as described in Standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The meltingpoint of a pasty substance or of a wax may be measured using adifferential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimetersold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments.

The measuring protocol is as follows:

A sample of 5 mg of paste or wax (depending on the case) placed in acrucible is subjected to a first temperature rise passing from −20° C.to 100° C., at the heating rate of 10° C./minute, then is cooled from100° C. to −20° C. at a cooling rate of 10° C./minute and finallysubjected to a second temperature rise passing from −20° C. to 100° C.at a heating rate of 5° C./minute. During the second temperature rise,the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucibleand the crucible containing the sample of pasty substance or wax ismeasured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of thecompound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the tip of thepeak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in powerabsorbed as a function of the temperature.

The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23° C. is equalto the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23° C. to theenthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound.

The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed bythe compound in order to change from the solid state to the liquidstate. The pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when all ofits mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty compound is said to bein the liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.

The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the area under thecurve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanningcalorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920by the company TA Instrument, with a temperature rise of 5° C. or 10° C.per minute, according to standard ISO 11357-3:1999. The enthalpy offusion of the pasty compound is the amount of energy necessary to makethe compound change from the solid state to the liquid state. It isexpressed in J/g.

The heat of fusion consumed at 23° C. is the amount of energy absorbedby the sample to change from the solid state to the state that it has at23° C., composed of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32° C. preferablyrepresents from 30% to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably from50% to 100%, more preferably from 60% to 100% by weight of the compound.When the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32° C. isequal to 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of thepasty compound is less than or equal to 32° C.

The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32° C. is equal tothe ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32° C. to the enthalpyof fusion of the pasty compound. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32°C. is calculated in the same way as the enthalpy of fusion consumed at23° C.

The pasty fatty compound may preferably be chosen from syntheticcompounds and compounds of plant origin. A pasty fatty substance may beobtained by synthesis from starting materials of plant origin.

The pasty compound is advantageously chosen from:

-   -   lanolin and derivatives thereof, such as lanolin alcohol,        oxyethylenated lanolins, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such        as isopropyl lanolate, and oxypropylenated lanolins;    -   petrolatum, in particular the product which has this as INCI        name and which is sold under the name Ultima White PET USP by        Penreco;    -   polyol ethers chosen from ethers of pentaerythritol and of        polyalkylene glycol, ethers of fatty alcohol and of sugar, and        mixtures thereof, the ethers of pentaerythritol and of        polyethylene glycol comprising 5 oxyethylene units (50E) (CTFA        name: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), the polypropylene glycol        pentaerythrityl ether comprising 5 oxypropylene (50P) units        (CTFA name: PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether) and mixtures thereof,        and more especially the mixture PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether,        PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and soybean oil, sold under the name        Lanolide by the company Vevy, which is a mixture in which the        constituents are in a 46/46/8 weight ratio: 46% PEG-5        Pentaerythrityl Ether, 46% PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and 8%        soybean oil;    -   polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds;    -   polymeric or non-polymeric fluoro compounds;    -   vinyl polymers, in particular:        -   olefin homopolymers and copolymers, and especially            vinylpyrrolidone/eicosene copolymers, for instance the            product sold under the name Antaron V-220 (also known as            Ganex V220) by the company ISP,        -   hydrogenated diene homopolymers and copolymers,        -   oligomers that are linear or branched homopolymers or            copolymers of alkyl (meth)acrylates preferably containing a            C₈-C₃₀ alkyl group,        -   oligomers that are homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl            esters containing C₈-C₃₀ alkyl groups,        -   oligomers that are homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl            ethers having C₈-C₃₀ alkyl groups,    -   liposoluble polyethers resulting from polyetherification between        one or more C₂-C₁₀₀ and preferably C₂-C₅₀ diols,    -   esters,    -   and/or their mixtures.

The pasty compound is preferably a polymer, in particular a hydrocarbonpolymer.

Preference is given in particular, among the fat-soluble polyethers, tocopolymers of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide with long-chainC₆-C₃₀ alkylene oxides, more preferably such that the ratio by weight ofthe ethylene oxide and/or of the propylene oxide to the alkylene oxidesin the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, mention will bemade in particular of copolymers such that the long-chain alkyleneoxides are positioned in blocks having an average molecular weight from1000 to 10 000, for example a polyoxyethylene/polydodecyl glycol blockcopolymer, such as the ethers of dodecanediol (22 mol) and ofpolyethylene glycol (450E) sold under the brand name Elfacos ST9 by AkzoNobel.

Preference is given in particular, among the esters, to:

esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular diglycerol esters,especially condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which aportion of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with amixture of fatty acids, such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acidand isostearic acid, and 12-hydroxystearic acid, preferably such asbis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, sold under the brand name Softisan 649by Sasol,

-   -   vinyl ester homopolymers containing C₈-C₃₀ alkyl groups, such as        polyvinyl laurate (sold especially under the reference Mexomer        PP by the company Chimex) and arachidyl propionate sold under        the brand name Waxenol 801 by Alzo,    -   phytosterol esters,    -   fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, such as, for        example, triglycerides of fatty acids, in particular C₁₀-C₁₈        fatty acids, which are partially or completely hydrogenated,        such as those sold under the reference Softisan 100 by Sasol,    -   pentaerythritol esters,    -   non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from polycondensation        between a linear or branched C₄-C₅₀ dicarboxylic acid or        polycarboxylic acid and a C₂-C₅₀ diol or polyol,

aliphatic esters of an ester resulting from the esterification of analiphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester with an aliphatic carboxylicacid. Preferably, the aliphatic carboxylic acid comprises from 4 to 30and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. It is preferably chosen fromhexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, octanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid,nonanoic acid, decanoic acid, undecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid,tridecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, pentadecanoic acid, hexadecanoicacid, hexyldecanoic acid, heptadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid,isostearic acid, nonadecanoic acid, eicosanoic acid, isoarachidic acid,octyldodecanoic acid, heneicosanoic acid and docosanoic acid, andmixtures thereof. The aliphatic carboxylic acid is preferably branched.The aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester is advantageously derivedfrom a hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid containing from 2 to 40carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 34 carbon atoms and better stillfrom 12 to 28 carbon atoms, and from 1 to 20 hydroxyl groups, preferablyfrom 1 to 10 hydroxyl groups and better still from 1 to 6 hydroxylgroups. The aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester is chosen from:

-   -   a) partial or total esters of saturated linear monohydroxylated        aliphatic monocarboxylic acids;    -   b) partial or total esters of unsaturated monohydroxylated        aliphatic monocarboxylic acids;    -   c) partial or total esters of saturated monohydroxylated        aliphatic polycarboxylic acids;    -   d) partial or total esters of saturated polyhydroxylated        aliphatic polycarboxylic acids;    -   e) partial or total esters of C₂ to C₁₆ aliphatic polyols that        have reacted with a monohydroxylated or polyhydroxylated        aliphatic monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acid,        and mixtures thereof,    -   esters of a diol dimer and of a diacid dimer, where appropriate        esterified on their free alcohol or acid functional group(s)        with acid or alcohol radicals, in particular dimer dilinoleate        esters; such esters can be chosen in particular from the esters        having the following INCI nomenclature:        bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer        dilinoleate (Plandool G),        phytosteryl/isostearyl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl dimer dilinoleate        (Plandool H or Plandool S), and mixtures thereof,    -   mango butter, such as the product sold under the reference Lipex        203 by AarhusKarlshamn,    -   hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated        rape seed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils such as        the mixture of hydrogenated soybean, coconut, palm and rape seed        vegetable oil, for example the mixture sold under the reference        Akogel® by the company AarhusKarlshamn (INCI name: Hydrogenated        Vegetable Oil),    -   shea butter, in particular the product for which the INCI name        is Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as the product sold under        the reference Sheasoft® by the company AarhusKarlshamn,    -   and mixtures thereof.

The choice will preferably be made, among the pasty compounds, ofbis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate,bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, hydrogenated castor oil, for exampleRisocast-DA-L sold by Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo, hydrogenated castor oilisostearate, for example Salacos HClS (V-L) sold by Nisshin Oil,polyvinyl laurate, mango butter, shea butter, hydrogenated soybean oil,hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rape seed oil,vinylpyrrolidone/eicosene copolymers, or their mixture.

The pasty fatty substance(s) may be present in an amount ranging from0.5% to 30% by weight and especially from 1% to 20% by weight relativeto the total weight of the composition.

A composition used according to the invention may comprise, besides theabovementioned compounds, at least one structuring agent chosen fromsemi-crystalline polymers, and mixtures thereof.

Semi-Crystalline Polymer

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at leastone semi-crystalline polymer, in particular, a semi-crystalline polymerof organic structure whose melting point is greater than or equal to 30°C.

Preferably, the total amount of semi-crystalline polymer(s) representsfrom 2% to 20% by weight, for example from 3% to 15% by weight andbetter still from 4% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight ofthe composition.

For the purposes of the invention, the term “polymers” means compoundscomprising at least two repeating units, preferably at least threerepeating units and more especially at least ten repeating units.

For the purposes of the invention, the term “semi-crystalline polymer”means polymers comprising a crystallizable portion and an amorphousportion in the backbone and having a first-order reversible change ofphase temperature, in particular of melting (solid-liquid transition).The crystallizable portion is either a side chain (or pendent chain) ora block in the backbone.

When the crystallizable portion of the semi-crystalline polymer is ablock of the polymer backbone, this crystallizable block has a chemicalnature different from that of the amorphous blocks; in this case, thesemi-crystalline polymer is a block copolymer, for example of thediblock, triblock or multiblock type. When the crystallizable portion isa chain that is pendent on the backbone, the semi-crystalline polymermay be a homopolymer or a copolymer.

The terms “organic compound” and “having an organic structure” meancompounds containing carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms and optionallyheteroatoms such as S, O, N or P, alone or in combination.

The melting point of the semi-crystalline polymer is preferably lessthan 150° C.

The melting point of the semi-crystalline polymer is preferably greaterthan or equal to 30° C. and less than 100° C. More preferably, themelting point of the semi-crystalline polymer is preferably greater thanor equal to 30° C. and less than 70° C.

The semi-crystalline polymer(s) according to the invention are solid atroom temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), with amelting point of greater than or equal to 30° C. The melting pointvalues correspond to the melting point measured using a differentialscanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the nameDSC 30 by the company Mettler, with a temperature rise of 5° C. or 10°C. per minute. (The melting point under consideration is the pointcorresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of thethermogram).

The semi-crystalline polymer(s) according to the invention preferablyhave a melting point that is higher than the temperature of thekeratinous support intended to receive the said composition, inparticular the skin or the lips.

According to the invention, the semi-crystalline polymers areadvantageously soluble in the fatty phase, especially to at least 1% byweight, at a temperature that is higher than their melting point.Besides the crystallizable chains or blocks, the blocks of the polymersare amorphous.

For the purposes of the invention, the expression “crystallizable chainor block” means a chain or block which, if it were obtained alone, wouldchange from the amorphous state to the crystalline state reversibly,depending on whether one is above or below the melting point. For thepurposes of the invention, a “chain” is a group of atoms, which arependent or lateral relative to the polymer backbone. A “block” is agroup of atoms belonging to the backbone, this group constituting one ofthe repeating units of the polymer.

According to one preferred embodiment, the semi-crystalline polymer ischosen from:

-   -   homopolymers and copolymers comprising units resulting from the        polymerization of one or more monomers bearing crystallizable        hydrophobic side chain(s),    -   polymers bearing in the backbone at least one crystallizable        block,    -   polycondensates of aliphatic or aromatic or aliphatic/aromatic        polyester type    -   copolymers of ethylene and propylene prepared via metallocene        catalysis.

The semi-crystalline polymers that may be used in the invention may inparticular be chosen from:

-   -   block copolymers of polyolefins of controlled crystallization,        whose monomers are described in EP-A-0 951 897,    -   polycondensates, especially of aliphatic or aromatic or        aliphatic/aromatic polyester type,    -   copolymers of ethylene and propylene prepared via metallocene        catalysis,    -   homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable        side chain and homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one        crystallizable block in the backbone, for instance those        described in document U.S. Pat. No. 5,156,911,    -   homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable        side chain, in particular bearing fluoro group(s), such as those        described in document WO-A-01/19333,    -   and mixtures thereof.

Examples of semi-crystalline polymers that may be mentioned includethose described in patent application WO 2010/010 301.

According to one preferred embodiment, the semi-crystalline polymer ischosen from homopolymers and copolymers comprising units resulting fromthe polymerization of one or more monomers bearing crystallizablehydrophobic side chains, and is preferably chosen from poly(C₁₀₋₃₀)alkylacrylates, preferably such as polystearyl acrylate, sold especiallyunder the reference Intelimer IPA 13-1 by the company Air Products &Chemicals, and also polybehenyl acrylate, sold especially under thereference Intelimer IPA 13-6 by the company Air Products & Chemicals.

Aqueous Phase

As stated hereinabove, a composition according to the inventioncomprises water.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises atleast 2% by weight of water, preferably at least 5% by weight andpreferably at least 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of thecomposition.

The water may be present in a total content ranging from 2% to 80% byweight. Preferably, the water is present in a total content ranging from15% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition in accordance with the invention may comprise, besideswater, at least one water-soluble solvent.

The aqueous phase may constitute the continuous phase of thecomposition.

The term “composition with an aqueous continuous phase” means that thecomposition has a conductivity, measured at 25° C., of greater than orequal to 23 μS/cm (microSiemens/cm), the conductivity being measured,for example, using an MPC227 conductimeter from Mettler Toledo and anInlab730 conductivity measuring cell. The measuring cell is immersed inthe composition so as to remove the air bubbles that might be formedbetween the two electrodes of the cell. The conductivity reading istaken once the conductimeter value has stabilized. A mean is determinedon at least three successive measurements.

In the present invention, the term “water-soluble solvent” denotes acompound that is liquid at room temperature and water-miscible(miscibility with water of greater than 50% by weight at 25° C. andatmospheric pressure).

The water-soluble solvents which can be used in the compositionsaccording to the invention can in addition be volatile.

Among the water-soluble solvents that may be used in the compositions inaccordance with the invention, mention may be made especially of lowermonoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol andisopropanol, glycols containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such asethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropyleneglycol, C₃ and C₄ ketones and C₂-C₄ aldehydes.

The aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible solvent) maybe present in the composition in a content ranging from 2% to 95% byweight and preferably ranging from 5% to 80% by weight relative to thetotal weight of the composition. In a particularly preferred manner, theaqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible solvent) ispresent in the composition in a content ranging from 10% to 60% byweight, preferably from 15% to 50% by weight and preferably from 20% to40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The aqueous phase according to the invention may also comprise at leastone hydrophilic film-forming polymer and/or at least one hydrophilicthickener and/or at least one surfactant. However, the content ofaqueous phase indicated previously does not include the contents of eachof the abovementioned compounds.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the compositionaccording to the invention is an oil-in-water emulsion.

Gemini Anionic Surfactant:

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one geminisurfactant of formula (I):

in which:

-   -   R₁ and R₃ denote, independently of one another, an alkyl radical        containing from 1 to 25 carbon atoms;    -   R₂ denotes a spacer consisting of a linear or branched alkylene        chain containing from 1 to 12 carbon atoms;    -   X and Y denote, independently of each other, a group        —(C₂H₄O)_(a)—(C₃H₆O)_(b)Z, where:    -   Z denotes a hydrogen atom or a radical —CH₂—COOM, —SO₃M,        —P(O)(OM)₂, —C₂H₄—SO₃M, —C₃H₆—SO₃M or —CH₂(CHOH)₄CH₂OH, where M        and M′ represent H or an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal or        ammonium or alkanolammonium ion,    -   a ranges from 0 to 15,    -   b ranges from 0 to 10, and    -   the sum of a+b ranges from 1 to 25; and

n ranges from 1 to 10.

The gemini surfactant of formula (I) is preferably such that each of thegroups R₁—CO— and R₃—CO— comprises from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, andpreferably denotes a coconut fatty acid residue (comprising mainlylauric acid and myristic acid).

In addition, this surfactant is preferably such that, for each of the Xand Y radicals, the sum of a and b has an average value ranging from 10to 20 and is preferably equal to 15. A preferred group for Z is thegroup —SO₃M, where M is preferably an alkali metal ion such as a sodiumion.

The spacer R₂ advantageously consists of a linear C₁-C₃ alkylene chain,and preferably an ethylene (CH₂CH₂) chain.

Finally, n is advantageously equal to 1.

A surfactant of this type is in particular the one identified by theINCI name: Sodium dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate, having thefollowing structure:

it being understood that PEG represents the CH₂CH₂O group and cocoylrepresents the coconut fatty acid residue.

This surfactant has a molecular structure very similar to that ofceramide-3.

Preferably, the gemini surfactant according to the invention is used asa mixture with other surfactants, and in particular as a mixture with(a) an ester of a C₆-C₂₂ fatty acid (preferably C₁₄-C₂₀ such as astearate) and of glyceryl, (b) a diester of a C₆-C₂₂ fatty acid(preferably C₁₄-C₂₀ such as a stearate) and of citric acid and ofglycerol (in particular a diester of a C₆-C₂₂ fatty acid and of glycerylmonocitrate), and (c) a C₁₀-C₃₀ fatty alcohol (preferably behenylalcohol).

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises amixture of sodium dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate, of glycerylstearate, of glyceryl stearate monocitrate, of behenyl alcohol.

More preferentially, the gemini surfactant according to the inventionrepresents from 10 to 20% by weight, and advantageously 15% by weight;the ester of a C₆-C₂₂ fatty acid and of glyceryl represents from 30 to40% by weight, advantageously 35% by weight; the diester of a C₆-C₂₂fatty acid and of citric acid and of glycerol represents from 10 to 20%by weight, advantageously 15% by weight; and the C₁₀-C₃₀ fatty alcoholrepresents from 30 to 40% by weight, advantageously 35% by weight,relative to the total weight of the mixture of surfactants containingthe gemini surfactant.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises amixture of from 10 to 20% by weight of sodium dicocoylethylenediaminePEG-15 sulfate, from 30 to 40% (in particular 35%) by weight of glycerylstearate, from 10 to 20% (in particular 15%) by weight of glycerylstearate monocitrate and from 30 to 40% (in particular 35%) by weight ofbehenyl alcohol, relative to the total weight of the mixture ofsurfactants comprising the gemini surfactant.

As a variant, the gemini surfactant according to the invention may beused as a mixture with an anionic surfactant, such as an ester of lauricacid, sodium lauroyl lactate. In this case, the gemini surfactantpreferably represents from 30% to 50% by weight, and the anionicsurfactant represents from 50% to 70% by weight, relative to the totalweight of the mixture.

The gemini surfactant may be used, for example, as a mixture with othersurfactants in the form of the products sold by Sasol under theCeralution® names, in particular the following products:

-   -   Ceralution® H: Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl        Stearate Citrate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15        Sulfate,    -   Ceralution® F: Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate and Sodium        Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate,    -   Ceralution® C: Aqua, Capric/Caprylic triglyceride, Glycerin,        Ceteareth-25, Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate,        Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate,        Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Gum Arabic, Xanthan Gum,        Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben,        Isobutylparaben (INCI names).

This gemini surfactant represents from 3 to 50% of the weight of thesemixtures.

Preferably, the composition comprises as gemini surfactant the compoundwhose INCI name is Behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearatecitrate and sodium dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate, sold underthe name Ceralution® H by the company Sasol.

The gemini surfactant of formula (I) (or the mixture of surfactantscomprising the gemini surfactants of formula (I) described previously)may be present in a composition according to the invention in a contentranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 15%by weight and better still ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, relative tothe total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the content of gemini surfactant of formula (I) (or mixtureof surfactants comprising the gemini surfactants of formula (I)described previously) in a composition according to the invention isbetween 1% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of thecomposition.

Preferably, the content of gemini surfactant of formula (I) (or mixtureof surfactants comprising the gemini surfactants of formula (I)described previously) in a composition according to the invention isbetween 1.5% and 3% by weight relative to the total weight of thecomposition.

Additional Surfactant:

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises atleast one additional surfactant other than the said gemini surfactant,chosen from nonionic surfactants, cationic surfactants and anionicsurfactants.

Preferably, the composition is such that the additional surfactant ispresent in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 1% to 10% by weight,relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the total content of surfactants is such that thenon-volatile oils/total content of surfactant(s) weight ratio is between1 and 40 and preferably between 3 and 35.

Preferably, the surfactant(s) are present in a total content ofnon-volatile oils/content of surfactant(s) weight ratio of between 4 and25.

An additional emulsifying surfactant appropriately chosen to obtain anoil-in-water emulsion is preferably used.

In particular, an emulsifying surfactant having at 25° C. an HLB balance(hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) within the Griffin sense of greaterthan or equal to 8 may be used.

An emulsifying surfactant having at 25° C. an HLB balance(hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) within the Griffin sense of less than 8may also be used.

The Griffin HLB value is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5),pages 249-256.

These additional surfactants may be chosen from nonionic, anionic,cationic and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof. Reference maybe made to Kirk-Othmer's Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Volume 22,pp. 333-432, 3rd Edition, 1979, Wiley, for the definition of theemulsifying properties and functions of surfactants, in particular pp.347-377 of this reference, for the anionic, amphoteric and nonionicsurfactants.

According to a first embodiment, the composition comprises at least oneadditional hydrocarbon-based surfactant.

Examples of hydrocarbon-based surfactants that are suitable for use inthe invention are described below.

Nonionic Additional Surfactants

Preferably, the additional surfactant is chosen from nonionicsurfactants.

The additional nonionic surfactants may be chosen especially from alkyland polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide), oxyalkylenated alcohols,alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of poly(ethylene oxide), optionallypolyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan, optionallypolyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of sorbitan, alkyl andpolyalkyl glycosides or polyglycosides, in particular alkyl andpolyalkyl glucosides or polyglucosides, alkyl and polyalkyl esters ofsucrose, optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters ofglycerol, optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers ofglycerol, cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

1) Alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide) that arepreferably used include those with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) unitsranging from 2 to 200. Examples that may be mentioned include stearate40 EO, stearate 50 EO, stearate 100 EO, laurate 20 EO, laurate 40 EO anddistearate 150 EO.

2) Alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of poly(ethylene oxide) that arepreferably used include those with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) unitsranging from 2 to 200. Examples that may be mentioned include cetylether 23 EO, oleyl ether 50 EO, phytosterol 30 EO, steareth 40, steareth100 and beheneth 100.

3) As oxyalkylenated alcohols, which are in particular oxyethylenatedand/or oxypropylenated, use is preferably made of those that cancomprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units, inparticular containing from 20 to 100 oxyethylene units, in particularethoxylated fatty alcohols, especially of C₈-C₂₄ and preferably ofC₁₂-C₁₈, which may or may not be ethoxylated, for instance stearylalcohol ethoxylated with 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA name Steareth-20),for instance Brij 78 sold by the company Uniqema or Brij S20-PA-(SG)sold by the company Croda, cetearyl alcohol ethoxylated with 30oxyethylene units (CTFA name Ceteareth-30), and the mixture of C₁₂-C₁₅fatty alcohols comprising 7 oxyethylene units (CTFA name C₁₂-C₁₅Pareth-7), for instance the product sold under the name Neodol 25-7® byShell Chemicals; or in particular oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/oroxypropylenated) alcohols containing from 1 to 15 oxyethylene and/oroxypropylene units, in particular ethoxylated C₈-C₂₄ and preferablyC₁₂-C₁₈ fatty alcohols, such as stearyl alcohol ethoxylated with 2oxyethylene units (CTFA name Steareth-2), for instance Brij 72 sold bythe company Uniqema;

4) Optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitanthat are preferably used include those with a number of ethylene oxide(EO) units ranging from 0 to 100. Examples that may be mentioned includesorbitan laurate 4 or 20 EO, in particular polysorbate 20 (orpolyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate) such as the product Tween 20sold by the company Uniqema, sorbitan palmitate 20 EO, sorbitan stearate20 EO, sorbitan oleate 20 EO, or the Cremophor products (RH 40, RH 60,etc.) from BASF. Mention may also be made of the mixture of sorbitanstearate and sucrose cocoate (sold under the name Arlacel 2121U-FL fromCroda).

5) Optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of sorbitanthat are preferably used include those with a number of ethylene oxide(EO) units ranging from 0 to 100.

6) Alkyl and polyalkyl glucosides or polyglucosides that are preferablyused include those containing an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30carbon atoms and preferably from 6 to 18 or even from 8 to 16 carbonatoms, and containing a glucoside group preferably comprising from 1 to5 and especially 1, 2 or 3 glucoside units. The alkylpolyglucosides maybe chosen, for example, from decylglucoside (alkyl-C₉/C₁₁-polyglucoside(1.4)), for instance the product sold under the name Mydol 10® by thecompany Kao Chemicals or the product sold under the name Plantacare 2000UP® by the company Henkel and the product sold under the name Oramix NS10® by the company SEPPIC; caprylyl/capryl glucoside, for instance theproduct sold under the name Plantacare KE 3711® by the company Cognis orOramix CG 110® by the company SEPPIC; laurylglucoside, for instance theproduct sold under the name Plantacare 1200 UP® by the company Henkel orPlantaren 1200 N® by the company Henkel; cocoglucoside, for instance theproduct sold under the name Plantacare 818 UP® by the company Henkel;caprylylglucoside, for instance the product sold under the namePlantacare 810 UP® by the company Cognis; the mixture of arachidylglucoside and behenyl alcohol and arachidyl alcohol, whose INCI name isArachidyl alcohol (and) behenyl alcohol (and) arachidyl glucoside, soldunder the name Montanov 202 by the company SEPPIC; and mixtures thereof.More generally, the surfactants of alkylpolyglycoside type are definedmore specifically hereinbelow.

7) As alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sucrose, in particular C12-C26 alkylesters, examples that may be mentioned include sucrose stearate, soldespecially under the name Tegosoft PSE 141 G by the company EvonikGoldschmidt, the mixture of sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate (soldunder the name Arlatone Arlacel 2121 U-FL from Croda), Crodesta F150,the sucrose monolaurate sold under the name Crodesta SL 40, and theproducts sold by Ryoto Sugar Ester, for instance the sucrose palmitatesold under the references Ryoto Sugar Ester P 1670, Ryoto Sugar EsterLWA 1695 and Ryoto Sugar Ester 01570.

8) Optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerolthat are preferably used include those with a number of ethylene oxide(EO) units ranging from 0 to 100 and a number of glycerol units rangingfrom 1 to 30. Examples that may be mentioned include PEG-150 distearatesold under the reference Kessco PEG 6000 DS by the company ItalmatchChemicals Arese, hexaglyceryl monolaurate and PEG-30 glyceryl stearate.

9) Optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of glycerolthat are preferably used include those with a number of ethylene oxide(EO) units ranging from 0 to 100 and a number of glycerol units rangingfrom 1 to 30. Examples that may be mentioned include Nikkol batylalcohol 100 and Nikkol chimyl alcohol 100;

10) cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol;

11) and mixtures thereof.

According to one preferred embodiment, the additional surfactant ischosen from oxyalkylenated and in particular oxyethylenated and/oroxypropylenated alcohols; use is preferably made of those that cancomprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units, inparticular containing from 20 to 100 oxyethylene units, in particularethoxylated fatty alcohols, especially of C₈-C₂₄ and preferably ofC₁₂-C₁₈, which may or may not be ethoxylated, for instance stearylalcohol ethoxylated with 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA name Steareth-20),for instance Brij 78 sold by the company Uniqema, cetearyl alcoholethoxylated with 30 oxyethylene units (CTFA name Ceteareth-30), and themixture of C₁₂-C₁₅ fatty alcohols comprising 7 oxyethylene units (CTFAname C₁₂-C₁₅ Pareth-7), for instance the product sold under the nameNeodol 25-7® by Shell Chemicals; or in particular oxyalkylenated(oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) alcohols containing from 1 to 15oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units, in particular ethoxylated C₈-C₂₄and preferably C₁₂-C₁₈ fatty alcohols, such as stearyl alcoholethoxylated with 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA name Steareth-20), forinstance Brij 72 sold by the company Uniqema or Brij S20-PA-(SG) sold bythe company Croda; stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol, and mixturesthereof.The additional surfactant is particularly preferably chosen fromSteareth-20, stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

The additional surfactant is particularly preferably stearyl alcoholethoxylated with 20 oxyethylene units.

Advantageously, the content of gemini surfactants and of additionalsurfactant is such that the weight ratio of the content of geminisurfactants/content of additional surfactant(s) (preferably of stearylalcohol ethoxylated with 20 oxyethylene units) is between 0.1 and 10 andpreferably between 0.3 and 5.

Advantageously, the content of gemini surfactant and of stearyl alcoholethoxylated with 20 oxyethylene units is such that the weight ratio ofthe content of gemini surfactants/content of stearyl alcohol ethoxylatedwith 20 oxyethylene units is between 0.5 and 10 and preferably between 1and 5.

Anionic Surfactants

According to another embodiment, the additional surfactant may be chosenfrom anionic surfactants.

The additional anionic surfactants may be chosen from alkyl ethersulfates, carboxylates, amino acid derivatives, sulfonates,isethionates, taurates, sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, phosphatesand alkyl phosphates, polypeptides, metal salts of C₁₀-C₃₀ andespecially C₁₆-C₂₅ fatty acids, in particular metal stearates andbehenates, and mixtures thereof.

1) Examples of alkyl ether sulfates that may be mentioned include sodiumlauryl ether sulfate (70/30 C12-14) (2.2 EO) sold under the names SiponAOS225 or Texapon N702 by the company Henkel, ammonium lauryl ethersulfate (70/30 C12-14) (3 EO) sold under the name Sipon LEA 370 by thecompany Henkel, ammonium (C₁₂-C₁₄) alkyl ether (9 EO) sulfate sold underthe name Rhodapex AB/20 by the company Rhodia Chimie, and the mixture ofsodium magnesium lauryl oleyl ether sulfate sold under the name EmpicolBSD 52 by the company Albright & Wilson.

2) Examples of carboxylates that may be mentioned include salts (forexample alkali metal salts) of N-acylamino acids, glycol carboxylates,amido ether carboxylates (AEC) and polyoxyethylenated carboxylic acidsalts.

The surfactant of glycol carboxylate type may be chosen from alkylglycol carboxylates or 2-(2-hydroxyalkyloxy acetate), salts thereof andmixtures thereof. These alkyl glycol carboxylics comprise a linear orbranched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic and/or aromatic alkyl chaincontaining from 8 to 18 carbon atoms. These carboxylics may beneutralized with mineral bases such as potassium hydroxide or sodiumhydroxide.

Examples of surfactants of glycol carboxylic type that may be mentionedinclude sodium lauryl glycol carboxylate or sodium 2-(2-hydroxyalkyloxyacetate) such as the product sold under the name Beaulight Shaa® by thecompany Sanyo, Beaulight LCA-25N® or the corresponding acid fromBeaulight Shaa (Acid form)®.

An example of an amido ether carboxylate (AEC) that may be mentioned issodium lauryl amido ether carboxylate (3 EO) sold under the name AkypoFoam 30® by the company Kao Chemicals.

Examples of polyoxyethylenated carboxylic acid salts that may bementioned include oxyethylenated (6 EO) sodium lauryl ether carboxylate(65/25/10 C₁₂₋₁₄₋₁₆) sold under the name Akypo Soft 45 NV® by thecompany Kao Chemicals, polyoxyethylenated and carboxymethylated fattyacids of olive oil origin sold under the name Olivem 400® by the companyBiologia e Tecnologia, and oxyethylenated (6 EO) sodium tridecyl ethercarboxylate sold under the name Nikkol ECTD-6 NEX® by the companyNikkol.

3) Amino acid derivatives that may especially be mentioned includealkali metal salts of amino acids, such as:

-   -   sarcosinates, for instance the sodium lauroyl sarcosinate sold        under the name Sarkosyl NL 97® by the company Ciba or sold under        the name Oramix L30® by the company SEPPIC, sodium myristoyl        sarcosinate sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate MN® by the        company Nikkol, and sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate sold under the        name Nikkol Sarcosinate PN®, by the company Nikkol;    -   alaninates, for instance sodium N-lauroyl N-methyl        amidopropionate sold under the name Sodium Nikkol Alaninate        LN300 by the company Nikkol, or sold under the name Alanone        ALE®, by the company Kawaken, and triethanolamine N-lauroyl        N-methyl alanine sold under the name Alanone Alta® by the        company Kawaken;    -   glutamates, for instance triethanolamine monococoyl glutamate        sold under the name Acylglutamate CT-12® by the company        Ajinomoto, or triethanolamine lauroyl glutamate sold under the        name Acylglutamate LT-12® by the company Ajinomoto; and mixtures        thereof, for instance the mixture of Palmitoyl proline (and)        sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate (and) magnesium palmitoyl        glutamate, sold especially under the reference Sepifeel One by        the company SEPPIC.

The glutamic acid salts and/or derivatives are described morespecifically hereinbelow.

-   -   aspartates, for instance the mixture of triethanolamine        N-lauroyl aspartate and of triethanolamine N-myristoyl        aspartate, sold under the name Asparack® by the company        Mitsubishi;    -   glycine derivatives (glycinates), for instance the sodium        N-cocoyl glycinate sold under the names Amilite GCS-12® and        Amilite GCK 12 by the company Ajinomoto;    -   citrates, such as the oxyethylenated (9 mol) citric monoester of        cocoyl alcohols sold under the name Witconol EC 1129 by the        company Goldschmidt;    -   galacturonates, such as the sodium dodecyl-D-galactoside uronate        sold by the company Soliance.

4) Examples of sulfonates that may be mentioned include α-olefinsulfonates, for instance the sodium α-olefin sulfonate (C₁₄₋₁₆) soldunder the name Bio-Terge AS-40® by the company Stepan, sold under thenames Witconate AOS Protégé® and Sulframine AOS PH 12® by the companyWitco or sold under the name Bio-Terge AS-40 CG® by the company Stepan,the sodium secondary olefin sulfonate sold under the name Hostapur SAS30® by the company Clariant.

5) Isethionates that may be mentioned include acylisethionates, forinstance sodium cocoylisethionate, such as the product sold under thename Jordapon CI P® by the company Jordan.

6) Taurates that may be mentioned include the sodium salt of palm kerneloil methyltaurate sold under the name Hostapon CT Pate® by the companyClariant; N-acyl N-methyltaurates, for instance the sodium N-cocoylN-methyltaurate sold under the name Hostapon LT-SF® by the companyClariant or sold under the name Nikkol CMT-30-T® by the company Nikkol,and the sodium palmitoyl methyltaurate sold under the name Nikkol PMT®by the company Nikkol.

7) Examples of sulfosuccinates that may be mentioned include theoxyethylenated (3 EO) lauryl alcohol monosulfosuccinate (70/30 C₁₂/C₁₄)sold under the names Setacin 103 Special® and Rewopol SB-FA 30 K 4® bythe company Witco, the disodium salt of a C₁₂-C₁₄ alkylhemisulfosuccinate, sold under the name Setacin F Special Paste® by thecompany Zschimmer Schwarz, the oxyethylenated (2 EO) disodiumoleamidosulfosuccinate sold under the name Standapol SH 135® by thecompany Henkel, the oxyethylenated (5 EO) laurylamide monosulfosuccinatesold under the name Lebon A-5000® by the company Sanyo, theoxyethylenated (10 EO) disodium salt of lauryl citratemonosulfosuccinate sold under the name Rewopol SB CS 50® by the companyWitco, and the ricinoleic monoethanolamide monosulfosuccinate sold underthe name Rewoderm S 1333® by the company Witco. Polydimethylsiloxanesulfosuccinates may also be used, such as disodium PEG-12 dimethiconesulfosuccinate sold under the name Mackanate-DC30 by the companyMaclntyre.

8) Examples of alkyl sulfoacetates that may be mentioned include themixture of sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and disodium lauryl ethersulfosuccinate, sold under the name Stepan Mild LSB by the companyStepan.

9) Examples of phosphates and alkyl phosphates that may be mentionedinclude monoalkyl phosphates and dialkyl phosphates, such as the laurylmonophosphate sold under the name MAP 20® by the company Kao Chemicals,the potassium salt of dodecylphosphoric acid, mixture of monoester anddiester (predominantly diester) sold under the name Crafol AP-31® by thecompany Cognis, the mixture of octylphosphoric acid monoester anddiester sold under the name Crafol AP-20® by the company Cognis, themixture of ethoxylated (7 mol of EO) phosphoric acid diester of2-butyloctanol, sold under the name Isofol 12 7 EO-Phosphate Ester® bythe company Condea, the potassium or triethanolamine salt ofmono(C₁₂-C₁₃)alkyl phosphate sold under the references Arlatone MAP230K-40® and Arlatone MAP 230T-60® by the company Uniqema, the potassiumlauryl phosphate sold under the name Dermalcare MAP XC-99/09® by thecompany Rhodia Chimie, and the potassium cetyl phosphate sold under thename Arlatone MAP 160K by the company Uniqema.

10) The polypeptides are obtained, for example, by condensation of afatty chain onto amino acids from cereals and especially from wheat andoat. Examples of polypeptides that may be mentioned include thepotassium salt of hydrolysed lauroyl wheat protein, sold under the nameAminofoam W OR by the company Croda, the triethanolamine salt ofhydrolysed cocoyl soybean protein, sold under the name May-Tein SY bythe company Maybrook, the sodium salt of lauroyl oat amino acids, soldunder the name Proteol Oat by the company SEPPIC, collagen hydrolysategrafted onto coconut fatty acid, sold under the name Geliderm 3000 bythe company Deutsche Gelatine, and soybean proteins acylated withhydrogenated coconut acids, sold under the name Proteol VS 22 by thecompany SEPPIC.

-   -   11) Metal salts of C₁₀-C₃₀ and preferably C₁₆-C₂₅ fatty acids        that may be mentioned in particular include metal behenates,        such as sodium behenate, and metal stearates, such as sodium        stearate, sold especially under the reference Vegetable sodium        stearate 35/65 from FACI, and potassium stearate, and also        polyhydroxy stearates;    -   12) and mixtures thereof.

Cationic Surfactants

According to another embodiment, the additional surfactant may be chosenfrom cationic surfactants.

The additional cationic surfactants may be chosen from:

-   -   alkylimidazolidiniums such as isostearylethylimidonium        ethosulfate,    -   ammonium salts such as (C₁₂₋₃₀ alkyl)tri(C₁₋₄ alkyl)ammonium        halides, for instance N,N,N-trimethyl-1-docosanaminium chloride        (or behentrimonium chloride).

The compositions according to the invention may also contain one or moreamphoteric surfactants, for instance N-acylamino acids such as N-alkylamino acetates and disodium cocoamphodiacetate, and amine oxides such asstearamine oxide, or alternatively silicone surfactants, for instancedimethicone copolyol phosphates such as the product sold under the namePecosil PS 100® by the company Phoenix Chemical.

According to a second embodiment, the composition comprises at least onesilicone surfactant. Examples that may be mentioned include:

a) nonionic surfactants with an HLB of greater than or equal to 8 at 25°C., used alone or as a mixture; mention may be made especially of:

-   -   dimethicone copolyol, such as the product sold under the name        Q2-5220® by the company Dow Corning;    -   dimethicone copolyol benzoate, such as the product sold under        the names Finsolv SLB 101® and 201® by the company Fintex;

b) nonionic surfactants with an HLB of greater than or equal to 8 at 25°C., used alone or as a mixture; mention may be made especially of:

-   -   the mixture of cyclomethicone/dimethicone copolyol sold under        the name Q2-3225C® by the company Dow Corning.

Hydrophilic Gelling Polymers

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises atleast one hydrophilic gelling agent, preferably chosen from associativepolymers.

Preferably, the composition is such that the hydrophilic gelling agent(preferably an associative polymer), if present, is in a content rangingfrom 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of thecomposition.

For the purposes of the present patent application, the term “polymerfor gelling the aqueous phase” means a polymer that is capable ofgelling the aqueous phase of the compositions according to theinvention.

The gelling polymer that may be used according to the invention mayespecially be characterized by its capacity to form in water, beyond acertain concentration C*, a gel characterized by oscillatory rheology(μ=1 Hz) by a flow threshold τ_(c) at least equal to 10 Pa. Thisconcentration C* may vary widely according to the nature of the gellingpolymer under consideration.

By way of illustration, this concentration is between 1% and 2% byweight for an acrylamide/sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonatecopolymer as an inverse emulsion at 40% in polysorbate 80/I-C16, forinstance the product sold under the name Simulgel 600 by the companySEPPIC, and is about 0.5% by weight for an AMPS/ethoxylated (25 EO)cetearyl methacrylate copolymer crosslinked with trimethylolpropanetriacrylate (TMPTA) of the type such as Aristoflex HMS.

The gelling polymer may be present in the composition in an amount thatis sufficient to adjust the stiffness modulus G* (1 Hz, 25° C.) of thecomposition to a value greater than or equal to 10 000 Pa and especiallyranging from 10 000 Pa to 100 000 Pa. The method for measuring thestiffness modulus G* (1 Hz, 25° C.) of the composition is described ingreater detail hereinbelow.

The gelling polymer is a hydrophilic polymer and is thus present in theaqueous phase of the composition.

More particularly, this gelling polymer may be chosen from:

-   -   acrylic or methacrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers or salts        and esters thereof and in particular the products sold under the        names Versicol F or Versicol K by the company Allied Colloid,        Ultrahold 8 by the company Ciba-Geigy, and polyacrylic acids of        Synthalen K type, and salts, especially sodium salts, of        polyacrylic acids (corresponding to the INCI name sodium        acrylate copolymer) and more particularly a crosslinked sodium        polyacrylate (corresponding to the INCI name sodium acrylate        copolymer (and) caprylic/capric triglycerides) sold under the        name Luvigel EM by the company,    -   copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide sold in the form of        the sodium salt thereof under the names Reten by the company        Hercules, the sodium polymethacrylate sold under the name Darvan        No. 7 by the company Vanderbilt, and the sodium salts of        polyhydroxycarboxylic acids sold under the name Hydagen F by the        company Henkel,    -   polyacrylic acid/alkyl acrylate copolymers, preferably modified        or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers; the copolymers most        particularly preferred according to the present invention are        acrylate/C₁₀-C₃₀-alkylacrylate copolymers (INCI name:        Acrylates/C₁₀₋₃₀ Alkyl acrylate Crosspolymer) such as the        products sold by the company Lubrizol under the trade names        Pemulen TR1, Pemulen TR2, Carbopol 1382 and Carbopol EDT 2020,        and even more preferentially Pemulen TR-2;    -   AMPS (polyacrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid partially        neutralized with aqueous ammonia and highly crosslinked) sold by        the company Clariant,    -   AMPS/acrylamide copolymers of Sepigel or Simulgel type sold by        the company SEPPIC, and    -   polyoxyethylenated AMPS/alkyl methacrylate copolymers        (crosslinked or non-crosslinked) of the type such as Aristoflex        HMS sold by the company Clariant,    -   and mixtures thereof.

Other examples of hydrophilic gelling polymers that may be mentionedinclude:

-   -   anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan        polymers;    -   cellulose polymers, other than alkylcellulose, chosen from        hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose,        hydroxymethylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose and        carboxymethylcellulose, and also quaternized cellulose        derivatives;    -   vinyl polymers, for instance polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers        of methyl vinyl ether and of malic anhydride, the copolymer of        vinyl acetate and of crotonic acid, copolymers of        vinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate; copolymers of        vinylpyrrolidone and of caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol;    -   optionally modified polymers of natural origin, such as:        galactomannans and derivatives thereof, such as konjac gum,        gellan gum, locust bean gum, fenugreek gum, karaya gum, gum        tragacanth, gum arabic, acacia gum, guar gum, hydroxypropyl        guar, hydroxypropyl guar modified with sodium methylcarboxylate        groups (Jaguar XC97-1, Rhodia), hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium        guar chloride, and xanthan derivatives;    -   alginates and carrageenans;    -   glycoaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and derivatives thereof;    -   deoxyribonucleic acid;    -   mucopolysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid and chondroitin        sulfates, and mixtures thereof.

According to one preferred embodiment, the gelling polymer is chosenfrom acrylic or methacrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers or salts andesters thereof, polyacrylic acids and polyacrylic acid salts, ormixtures thereof.

According to one preferred embodiment, the gelling polymer is a sodiumsalt of polyacrylic acid, especially a crosslinked sodium polyacrylate.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the gelling agent ischosen from associative polymers.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “associativepolymer” means any amphiphilic polymer comprising in its structure atleast one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic portion. Theassociative polymers in accordance with the present invention may beanionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric.

Associative Anionic Polymers

Among the associative anionic polymers that may be mentioned are thosecomprising at least one hydrophilic unit, and at least one fatty-chainallyl ether unit, more particularly those whose hydrophilic unit isformed by an unsaturated ethylenic anionic monomer, advantageously by avinylcarboxylic acid and most particularly by an acrylic acid or amethacrylic acid or mixtures thereof, and whose fatty-chain allyl etherunit corresponds to the monomer of formula (I) below:

CH₂═C(R)CH₂OB_(n)R  (I)

in which R′ denotes H or CH₃, B denotes the ethylenoxy radical, n iszero or denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 100, R denotes ahydrocarbon-based radical chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryland cycloalkyl radicals, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,preferably 10 to 24 and even more particularly from 12 to 18 carbonatoms.

Anionic amphiphilic polymers of this type are described and prepared,according to an emulsion polymerization process, in patent EP-0 216 479.

Among the associative anionic polymers that may also be mentioned aremaleic anhydride/C₃₀-C₃₈ α-olefin/alkyl maleate terpolymers, such as theproduct (maleic anhydride/C₃₀-C₃₈ α-olefin/isopropyl maleate copolymer)sold under the name Performa V 1608 by the company NewphaseTechnologies.

Among the associative anionic polymers, use may be made, according toone preferred embodiment, of copolymers comprising among their monomersan α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of anα,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of anoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol.

Preferentially, these compounds also comprise as monomer an ester of anα,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of a C₁-C₄alcohol.

Examples of compounds of this type that may be mentioned include Aculyn22® sold by the company Röhm & Haas, which is a methacrylic acid/ethylacrylate/oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate (comprising 20 OE units)terpolymer or Aculyn 28 (methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/oxyethylenatedbehenyl methacrylate (25 OE) terpolymer).

Examples of associative anionic polymers that may also be mentionedinclude anionic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit ofunsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobicunit exclusively of the type such as a (C₁₀-C₃₀) alkyl ester of anunsaturated carboxylic acid. Examples that may be mentioned include theanionic polymers described and prepared according to patents U.S. Pat.Nos. 3,915,921 and 4,509,949.

Cationic Associative Polymers

Cationic associative polymers that may be mentioned include quaternizedcellulose derivatives and polyacrylates bearing amine side groups.

The quaternized cellulose derivatives are, in particular:

-   -   quaternized celluloses modified with groups comprising at least        one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups        comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof,    -   quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups        comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or        alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures        thereof.

The polyacrylates bearing quaternized or non-quaternized amine sidegroups contain, for example, hydrophobic groups of the type such assteareth-20 (polyoxyethylenated (20) stearyl alcohol).

The alkyl radicals borne by the above quaternized celluloses orhydroxyethylcelluloses preferably comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthrylgroups.

Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses containing C₈-C₃₀fatty chains that may be indicated include the products Quatrisoft LM200, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18B (C₁₂ alkyl) andQuatrisoft LM-X 529-8 (C₁₈ alkyl) sold by the company Amerchol and theproducts Crodacel QM, Crodacel QL (C₁₂ alkyl) and Crodacel QS (C₁₈alkyl) sold by the company Croda.

Examples of polyacrylates bearing amino side chains that may bementioned are the polymers 8781-121B or 9492-103 from the companyNational Starch.

Nonionic Associative Polymers

The nonionic associative polymers may be chosen from:

-   -   celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty        chain, for instance hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups        comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl groups,        especially of C₈-C₂₂, arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups, such as        Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS(C₁₆ alkyls) sold by the company        Aqualon,    -   celluloses modified with alkylphenyl polyalkylene glycol ether        groups, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500        (nonylphenyl polyethylene glycol (15) ether) sold by the company        Amerchol,    -   guars such as hydroxypropyl guar, modified with groups        comprising at least one fatty chain such as an alkyl chain,    -   copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of fatty-chain hydrophobic        monomers,    -   copolymers of C₁-C₆ alkyl methacrylates or acrylates and of        amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain,    -   copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and of        hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, for        instance the polyethylene glycol methacrylate/lauryl        methacrylate copolymer,    -   associative polyurethanes.

Associative polyurethanes are nonionic block copolymers comprising inthe chain both hydrophilic blocks usually of polyoxyethylene nature(polyurethanes may also be referred to as polyurethane polyethers), andhydrophobic blocks that may be aliphatic sequences alone and/orcycloaliphatic and/or aromatic sequences.

In particular, these polymers comprise at least two hydrocarbon-basedlipophilic chains containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by ahydrophilic block, the hydrocarbon-based chains possibly being pendentchains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic block. In particular, itis possible for one or more pendent chains to be envisaged. In addition,the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon-based chain at one end or at bothends of a hydrophilic block.

Associative polyurethanes may be block polymers, in triblock ormultiblock form. The hydrophobic blocks may thus be at each end of thechain (for example: triblock copolymer containing a hydrophilic centralblock) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (for example:multiblock copolymer). These polymers may also be graft polymers or starpolymers. Preferably, the associative polyurethanes are triblockcopolymers in which the hydrophilic block is a polyoxyethylene chaincomprising from 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups. In general, associativepolyurethanes comprise a urethane bond between the hydrophilic blocks,whence arises the name.

According to one preferred embodiment, a nonionic associative polymer ofpolyurethane type is used as gelling agent.

As examples of nonionic polyurethane polyethers that may not be used inthe invention, mention may be made of the polymer C₁₆-OE₁₂₀-C₁₆ from thecompany Servo Delden (under the name SER AD FX1100, which is a moleculecontaining a urethane function and having a weight-average molecularweight of 1300), OE being an oxyethylene unit. Rheolate 205 bearing aurea function, sold by the company Rheox, or Rheolate 208 or 204, oralternatively Rheolate FX 1100 by Elementis, may also be used asassociative polyurethane polymer. These associative polyurethanes aresold in pure form. The product DW 1206B from Röhm & Haas containing aC₂₀ alkyl chain and a urethane bond, sold at a solids content of 20% inwater, may also be used.

It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers,in particular in water or in aqueous-alcoholic medium. Examples of suchpolymers that may be mentioned include SER AD FX1010, SER AD FX1035 andSER AD 1070 from the company Servo Delden, and Rheolate 255, Rheolate278 and Rheolate 244 sold by the company Rheox. It is also possible touse the products Aculyn 46, DW 1206F and DW 1206J, and also Acrysol RM184 or Acrysol 44 from the company Röhm & Haas, or alternativelyBorchigel LW 44 from the company Borchers, and mixtures thereof.

According to one preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent ischosen from:

-   -   optionally modified hydroxypropyl guar, in particular        hydroxypropyl guar modified with sodium methylcarboxylate groups        (Jaguar XC97-1, Rhodia) or hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium guar        chloride,    -   vinyl polymers, such as polyvinyl alcohol,    -   anionic associative polymers derived from (meth)acrylic acid,        such as the non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from methacrylic        acid and steareth-20 methacrylate, sold under the name Aculyn 22        by Röhm & Haas,    -   nonionic associative polymers of polyurethane polyether type,        such as Steareth-100/PEG-136/HDI Copolymer sold under the name        Rheolate FX 1100 by Elementis.

According to one preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent ischosen from:

-   -   optionally modified hydroxypropyl guar, in particular        hydroxypropyl guar modified with sodium methylcarboxylate groups        (Jaguar XC97-1, Rhodia) or hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium guar        chloride,    -   anionic associative polymers derived from (meth)acrylic acid,        such as the non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from methacrylic        acid and steareth-20 methacrylate, sold under the name Aculyn 22        by Röhm & Haas,    -   nonionic associative polymers of polyurethane polyether type,        such as Steareth-100/PEG-136/HDI Copolymer sold under the name        Rheolate FX 1100 by Elementis.

Amphoteric Associative Polymers

Among the associative amphoteric polymers of the invention, mention maybe made of crosslinked or non-crosslinked, branched or unbranchedamphoteric polymers, which may be obtained by copolymerization

1) of at least one monomer of formula (IVa) or (IVb):

in which R₄ and R₅, which may be identical or different, represent ahydrogen atom or a methyl radical,

R₆, R₇ and R₈, which may be identical or different, represent a linearor branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms,

Z represents a group NH or an oxygen atom,

n is an integer from 2 to 5,

A⁻ denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as amethosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

in which R₉ and R₁₀, which may be identical or different, represent ahydrogen atom or a methyl radical;

Z₁ represents a group OH or a group NHC(CH₃)₂CH₂SO₃H;

3) of at least one monomer of formula (VI):

in which R₉ and R₁₀, which may be identical or different, represent ahydrogen atom or a methyl radical, X denotes an oxygen or nitrogen atomand R₁₁ denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to30 carbon atoms;

4) optionally at least one crosslinking or branching agent; at least oneof the monomers of formula (IVa), (IVb) or (VI) comprising at least onefatty chain containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and the said compoundsof the monomers of formulae (IVa), (IVb), (V) and (VI) possibly beingquaternized, for example with a C₁-C₄ alkyl halide or a C₁-C₄ dialkylsulfate.

The monomers of formulae (IVa) and (IVb) of the present invention arepreferably chosen from the group formed by:

-   -   dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, dimethylaminoethyl acrylate,    -   diethylaminoethyl methacrylate, diethylaminoethyl acrylate,    -   dimethylaminopropyl methacrylate, dimethylaminopropyl acrylate,    -   dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide or        dimethylaminopropylacrylamide, optionally quaternized, for        example with a C₁-C₄ alkyl halide or a C₁-C₄ dialkyl sulfate.

More particularly, the monomer of formula (IVa) is chosen fromacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride andmethacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride.

The compounds of formula (V) of the present invention are preferablychosen from the group formed by acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonicacid, 2-methylcrotonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acidand 2-methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. More particularly,the monomer of formula (V) is acrylic acid.

The monomers of formula (VI) of the present invention are preferablychosen from the group formed by C₁₂-C₂₂ and more particularly C₁₆-C₁₈alkyl acrylates or methacrylates.

The crosslinking or branching agent is preferably chosen fromN,N′-methylenebisacrylamide, triallylmethylammonium chloride, allylmethacrylate, n-methylolacrylamide, polyethylene glycol dimethacrylates,ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, diethylene glycol dimethacrylate,1,6-hexanediol dimethacrylate and allyl sucrose.

The polymers according to the invention may also contain other monomerssuch as nonionic monomers and in particular C₁-C₄ alkyl acrylates ormethacrylates.

The ratio of the number of cationic charges/anionic charges in theseamphoteric polymers is preferably equal to about 1.

The weight-average molecular weights of the associative amphotericpolymers have a weight-average molecular mass of greater than 500,preferably between 10 000 and 10 000 000 and even more preferentiallybetween 100 000 and 8 000 000. Preferably, the associative amphotericpolymers of the invention contain from 1 mol % to 99 mol %, morepreferentially from 20 mol % to 95 mol % and even more preferentiallyfrom 25 mol % to 75 mol % of compound(s) of formula (IVa) or (IVb). Theyalso preferably contain from 1 mol % to 80 mol %, more preferentiallyfrom 5 mol % to 80 mol % and even more preferentially from 25 mol % to75 mol % of compound(s) of formula (V). The content of compound(s) offormula (VI) is preferably between 0.1 mol % and 70 mol %, morepreferentially between 1 mol % and 50 mol % and even more preferentiallybetween 1 mol % and 10 mol %. The crosslinking or branching agent, whenit is present, is preferably between 0.0001 mol % and 1 mol % and evenmore preferentially between 0.0001 mol % and 0.1 mol %.

Preferably, the mole ratio between the compound(s) of formula (IVa) or(IVb) and the compound(s) of formula (V) ranges from 20/80 to 95/5 andmore preferentially from 25/75 to 75/25.

The associative amphoteric polymers according to the invention aredescribed, for example, in patent application WO 98/44012.

The amphoteric polymers that are particularly preferred according to theinvention are chosen from acrylic acid/acrylamidopropyltrimethylammoniumchloride/stearyl methacrylate copolymers.

Preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from:

-   -   xanthan gum,    -   optionally modified hydroxypropyl guar, in particular        hydroxypropyl guar modified with sodium methylcarboxylate groups        (Jaguar XC97-1, Rhodia) or hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium guar        chloride,    -   anionic associative polymers derived from (meth)acrylic acid,        such as the non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from methacrylic        acid and steareth-20 methacrylate, sold under the name Aculyn 22        by Röhm & Haas,    -   nonionic associative polymers of polyurethane polyether type,        such as Steareth-100/PEG-136/HDI Copolymer sold under the name        Rheolate FX 1100 by Elementis;    -   and mixtures thereof.

The hydrophilic gelling polymer(s), and in particular the associativepolymers, may be present in the composition according to the inventionin a total active material content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weightand preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight ofthe composition.

It is understood that this amount is moreover liable to vary dependingon whether the said polymer is or is not combined with an ionic and/ornonionic surfactant and/or a film-forming agent (other thanalkylcellulose and in particular ethylcellulose), which are themselvesalso capable of acting on the consistency of the said composition.

Active Agents

The composition may also comprise at least one active agent chosen frommoisturizers, cicatrizing agents and/or anti-ageing agents, for the skinand/or the lips, and in particular the lips.

According to this embodiment, the invention also relates to a processfor caring for the skin and/or the lips, and in particular the lips,comprising the application of a composition according to the inventionto the skin and/or the lips.

Since the deposit made with a composition according to the invention hasgood wear properties, this ensures the remanence of the active agent onthe skin and/or the lips and thus improves the care efficacy(moisturizing, cicatrizing and/or anti-ageing effect) on the skin and/orthe lips.

Moisturizers:

According to a first embodiment, the composition also comprises at leastone moisturizer (also known as a humectant).

Moisturizers or humectants that may especially be mentioned includesorbitol, polyhydric alcohols, preferably of C₂-C₈ and more preferablyC₃-C₆, preferably such as glycerol, propylene glycol, tripropyleneglycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and diglycerol, andmixtures thereof, glycerol and derivatives thereof, urea and derivativesthereof, especially Hydrovance® (2-hydroxyethylurea) sold by NationalStarch, lactic acids, hyaluronic acid, AHAs, BHAs, sodium pidolate,xylitol, serine, sodium lactate, ectoin and derivatives thereof,chitosan and derivatives thereof, collagen, plankton, an extract ofImperata cylindra sold under the name Moist 24® by the company Sederma,acrylic acid homopolymers, for instance Lipidure-HM® from NOFCorporation, β-glucan and in particular sodium carboxymethyl β-glucanfrom Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry; a mixture of passionflower oil, apricotoil, corn oil and rice bran oil sold by Nestlé under the nameNutraLipids®; a C-glycoside derivative such as those described in patentapplication WO 02/051 828 and in particularC-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane in the form of a solutioncontaining 30% by weight of active material in a water/propylene glycolmixture (60/40% by weight) such as the product manufactured by Chimexunder the trade name Mexoryl SBB®; an oil of musk rose sold by Nestlé;an extract of the microalga Prophyridium cruentum enriched with zinc,sold by Vincience under the name Algualane Zinc®; spheres of collagenand of chondroitin sulfate of marine origin (Ateocollagen) sold by thecompany Engelhard Lyon under the name Marine Filling Spheres; hyaluronicacid spheres such as those sold by the company Engelhard Lyon; andarginine.

Use will preferably be made of a moisturizer chosen from glycerol, ureaand derivatives thereof, especially Hydrovance® sold by National Starch,hyaluronic acid, AHAs, BHAs, acrylic acid homopolymers, for instanceLipidure-HM® from NOF Corporation, β-glucan and in particular sodiumcarboxymethyl β-glucan from Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry; a mixture ofpassion flower oil, apricot oil, corn oil and rice bran oil sold byNestlé under the name NutraLipids®; a C-glycoside derivative such asthose described in patent application WO 02/051 828 and in particularC-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane in the form of a solutioncontaining 30% by weight of active material in a water/propylene glycolmixture (60/40% by weight) such as the product sold by Chimex under thetrade name Mexoryl SBB®; an oil of musk rose sold by Nestlé; an extractof the microalga Prophyridium cruentum enriched with zinc, sold byVincience under the name Algualane Zinc®; spheres of collagen and ofchondroitin sulfate of marine origin (Ateocollagen) sold by the companyEngelhard Lyon under the name Marine Filling Spheres; hyaluronic acidspheres such as those sold by the company Engelhard Lyon; and arginine.

Cicatrizing Agents

The active agent may also be chosen from cicatrizing agents.

Examples of cicatrizing agents that may especially be mentioned include:allantoin, urea, certain amino acids, for instance hydroxyproline,arginine, and serine, and also extracts of white 111y (for instancePhytèléne Lys 37EG 16295 from Indena), a yeast extract, for instance thecicatrizing agent LS LO/7225B from Laboratoires Serobiologiques)(Cognis), tamanu oil, extract of Saccharomyces cerevisiae, for instanceBiodynes® TRF® from Arch Chemical, oat extracts, chitosan andderivatives, for instance chitosan glutamate, carrot extracts, artemiaextract, for instance GP4G® from Vincience, sodium acexamate, lavandinextracts, propolis extracts, ximeninic acid and salts thereof, rose hipoil, marigold extracts, for instance Souci Ami® Liposolible from AlbanMuller, horsetail extracts, lemon peel extracts, for instance Herbasol®citron from Cosmetochem, helichrysum extracts, common yarrow extracts,folic acid, β-glucan derivatives, shea butter and purified fractionsthereof, modified exopolysaccharides and alkylsulfonepolyaminosaccharides.

Anti-ageing Agents

The active agent may also be chosen from anti-ageing agents, i.e. agentsespecially having a restructuring effect on the skin barrier,anti-glycation agents, active agents that stimulate the energymetabolism of cells, and mixtures thereof.

The agent with a restructuring effect on the skin barrier may be chosenfrom an extract of Thermus thermophilus such as Vénucéane® from Sederma,an extract of the rhizome of wild yam (Dioscorea villosa) such asActigen Y® from Active Organics, plankton extracts, for instance OmegaPlankton® from Secma, yeast extracts, for instance Relipidium® fromColetica, a chestnut extract such as Recoverine® from Silab, a cedar budextract such as Gatuline Zen® from Gattefossé, sphingosines, forinstance salicyloyl sphingosine sold under the name Phytosphingosine®SLC by the company Degussa, a mixture of xylitol, polyxylityl glycosideand xylitan, for instance Aquaxyl® from SEPPIC, extracts of Solanaceaplants, for instance Lipidessence® from Coletica, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made especially of ceramides, sphingoid-basedcompounds, glycosphingolipids, phospholipids, cholesterol andderivatives thereof, phytosterols, essential fatty acids,diacylglycerol, 4-chromanone and chromone derivatives, and mixturesthereof.

As preferred agents having a restructuring effect on the skin barrierfunction, mention will be made of an extract of Thermus thermophilus, anextract of the rhizome of wild yam (Dioscorea villosa), a yeast extract,a chestnut extract, a cedar bud extract, and mixtures thereof.

The term “anti-glycation agent” means a compound that prevents and/orreduces the glycation of skin proteins, in particular dermal proteinssuch as collagen.

Examples of anti-glycation agents include extracts of plants of theEricacea family, such as an extract of blueberry (Vaccinium angustifohum), for example the product sold under the name Blueberry HerbasolExtract PG by the company Cosmetochem, ergothioneine and derivativesthereof, hydroxystilbenes and derivatives thereof, such as resveratroland 3,3′,5,5′-tetrahydroxystilbene (these anti-glycation agents aredescribed in patent applications FR 2 802 425, FR 2 810 548, FR 2 796278 and FR 2 802 420, respectively), dihydroxystilbenes and derivativesthereof, polypeptides of arginine and of lysine such as the product soldunder the name Amadorine® by the company Solabia, carcininehydrochloride (sold by Exsymol under the name Alistin®), an extract ofHelianthus annuus, for instance Antiglyskin® from Silab, wine extractssuch as the extract of powdered white wine on a maltodextrin supportsold under the name Vin blanc déshydraté2F by the company Givaudan,thioctic acid (or α-lipoic acid), a mixture of extract of bearberry andof marine glycogen, for instance Aglycal LS 8777® from LaboratoiresSérobiologiques, and an extract of black tea, for instance Kombuchka®from Sederma, and mixtures thereof.

The active agent for stimulating the energy metabolism of cells may bechosen, for example, from biotin, an extract of Saccharomyces cerevisiaesuch as Phosphovital® from Sederma, the mixture of sodium, manganese,zinc and magnesium salts of pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, for instancePhysiogenyl® from Solabia, a mixture of zinc, copper and magnesiumgluconate, such as Sepitonic M3® from SEPPIC, and mixtures thereof.

The active agents used in the compositions according to the inventionmay be hydrophilic or lipophilic.

Preferably, the composition comprises at least one hydrophilic activeagent, chosen from moisturizers, cicatrizing agents and anti-ageingagents.

Specifically, since the composition according to the invention compriseswater, this water lends itself particularly to the introduction ofhydrophilic active agents into the composition, in particular withoutany problem of stability of the composition and/or of the active agent.This is particularly interesting, in particular in the context oflipcare. Specifically, the standard lipstick compositions known in theprior art, whether they are solid or liquid, rarely comprise water, and,if they do contain any, they are generally unstable over time (i.e. theyundergo phase separation or exudation).

Preferably, the active agent is chosen from: polyhydric alcohols,preferably of C₂-C₈ and more preferably of C₃-C₆, preferably such asglycerol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol,diglycerol, and a mixture thereof, hyaluronic acid, AHAs, BHAs, serine,collagen, a C-glycoside derivative and in particularC-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane in the form of a solutioncontaining 30% by weight of active material in a water/propylene glycolmixture (60/40 wt %); spheres of collagen and of chondroitin sulfate ofmarine origin (Ateocollagen), hyaluronic acid spheres; ceramides,preferably such as ceramide V.

Preferably, the active material content of the composition ranges from0.001% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 20% by weight, betterstill from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 5% byweight and even better still from 0.05% to 1% by weight relative to thetotal weight of the composition.

A composition according to the invention may also comprise anyadditional component usually used in cosmetics, such as dyestuffs,fillers or cosmetic active agents.

Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to selectthe optional additional compounds and/or the amount thereof such thatthe advantageous properties of the composition used according to theinvention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by theenvisaged addition.

Colorants

A composition in accordance with the present invention may comprise atleast one dyestuff, which may be chosen from water-soluble orwater-insoluble, liposoluble or non-liposoluble, organic or mineraldyestuffs, and materials with an optical effect, and mixtures thereof.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “dyestuff” means acompound that is capable of producing a coloured optical effect when itis formulated in sufficient amount in a suitable cosmetic medium.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises atleast one dyestuff, chosen especially from pigments, nacres, andliposoluble and water-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.

According to one preferred embodiment, a composition according to theinvention comprises at least one water-soluble dyestuff.

The water-soluble dyestuffs used according to the invention are moreparticularly water-soluble dyes.

For the purposes of the invention, the term “water-soluble dye” meansany natural or synthetic, generally organic compound, which is solublein an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and which is capable ofcolouring. In particular, the term “water-soluble” means the capacity ofa compound to be dissolved in water, measured at 25° C., to aconcentration at least equal to 0.1 g/l (production of a macroscopicallyisotropic, transparent, coloured or colourless solution). Thissolubility is in particular greater than or equal to 1 g/l.

As water-soluble dyes that are suitable for use in the invention,mention may be made especially of synthetic or natural water-solubledyes, for instance FDC Red 4 (CI: 14700), DC Red 6 (Lithol Rubine Na;CI: 15850), DC Red 22 (CI: 45380), DC Red 28 (CI: 45410 Na salt), DC Red30 (CI: 73360), DC Red 33 (CI: 17200), DC Orange 4 (CI: 15510), FDCYellow 5 (CI: 19140), FDC Yellow 6 (CI: 15985), DC Yellow 8 (CI: 45350Na salt), FDC Green 3 (CI: 42053), DC Green 5 (CI: 61570), FDC Blue 1(CI: 42090).

As non-limiting illustrations of sources of water-soluble dyestuffs thatmay be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be madeespecially of those of natural origin, such as extracts of cochinealcarmine, of beetroot, of grape, of carrot, of tomato, of annatto, ofpaprika, of henna, of caramel and of curcumin.

Thus, the water-soluble dyestuffs that are suitable for use in theinvention are especially carminic acid, betanin, anthocyans, enocyanins,lycopene, β-carotene, bixin, norbixin, capxanthin, capsorubin,flavoxanthin, lutein, cryptoxanthin, rubixanthin, violaxanthin,riboflavin, rhodoxanthin, cantaxanthin and chlorophyll, and mixturesthereof.

They may also be copper sulfate, iron sulfate, water-solublesulfopolyesters, rhodamine, methylene blue, the disodium salt oftartrazine and the disodium salt of fuchsin.

Some of these water-soluble dyestuffs are especially permitted for fooduse. Representatives of these dyes that may be mentioned moreparticularly include dyes of the carotenoid family, referenced under thefood codes E120, E162, E163, E160a-g, E150a, E101, E100, E140 and E141.

According to one preferred variant, the water-soluble dyestuff(s) thatare to be transferred onto the skin and/or the lips intended to be madeup are formulated in a physiologically acceptable medium so as to becompatible with impregnation into the substrate.

The water-soluble dyestuff(s) may be present in a composition accordingto the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 8% by weight andpreferably from 0.1% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of thesaid composition.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the water-solubledyestuff(s) are chosen from the disodium salt of brilliant yellow FCFsold by the company LCW under the name DC Yellow 6, the disodium salt offuchsin acid D sold by the company LCW under the name DC Red 33, and thetrisodium salt of Rouge Allura sold by the company LCW under the name FD& C Red 40.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the compositionaccording to the invention comprises only water-soluble dyes asdyestuffs.

According to another embodiment, the composition according to theinvention comprises at least one pigment and/or nacre as dyestuff.

According to another embodiment, a composition according to theinvention may comprise, besides the water-soluble dyestuffs describedpreviously, one or more additional dyestuffs, especially such aspigments or nacres, conventionally used in cosmetic compositions.

The term “pigments” should be understood as meaning white or coloured,inorganic (mineral) or organic particles, which are insoluble in theliquid organic phase, and which are intended to colour and/or opacifythe composition and/or the deposit produced with the composition.

The pigments may be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments andcomposite pigments (i.e. pigments based on mineral and/or organicmaterials).

The pigments may be chosen from monochromatic pigments, lakes, nacres,and pigments with an optical effect, for instance reflective pigmentsand goniochromatic pigments.

The mineral pigments may be chosen from metal oxide pigments, chromiumoxides, iron oxides, titanium dioxide, zinc oxides, cerium oxides,zirconium oxides, manganese violet, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue andferric blue, and mixtures thereof.

The organic pigments may be, for example:

cochineal carmine,

organic pigments of azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, indigoid dyes,xanthene dyes, pyrene dyes, quinoline dyes, triphenylmethane dyes andfluorane dyes;

organic lakes or insoluble sodium, potassium, calcium, barium,aluminium, zirconium, strontium or titanium salts of acidic dyes such asazo, anthraquinone, indigoid, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline,triphenylmethane or fluorane dyes. These dyes generally comprise atleast one carboxylic or sulfonic acid group;

melanin-based pigments.

Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of D&C Blue No. 4, D&CBrown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&COrange No. 5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 6, D&CRed No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No.27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red No. 33, D&CRed No. 34, D&C Red No. 36, D&C Violet No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&CYellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, D&C Yellow No. 11, FD&C Blue No. 1,FD&C Green No. 3, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Yellow No. 5 and FD&C Yellow No.6.

The hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from silicones such asmethicones, dimethicones and perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such asstearic acid; metal soaps such as aluminium dimyristate, the aluminiumsalt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate, perfluoroalkyl phosphates,perfluoroalkylsilanes, perfluoroalkylsilazanes, polyhexafluoropropyleneoxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyethergroups, amino acids, N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin,isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.

The N-acylamino acids may comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22carbon atoms, for instance a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl,myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of thesecompounds may be aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodiumor potassium salts. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamicacid or alanine.

The term “alkyl” mentioned in the compounds cited above especiallydenotes an alkyl group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms andpreferably containing from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

Hydrophobic-treated pigments are described especially in patentapplication EP-A-1 086 683.

For the purposes of the present patent application, the term “nacre”should be understood as meaning coloured particles of any form, whichmay or may not be iridescent, especially produced by certain molluscs intheir shell, or alternatively synthesized, and which have a coloureffect via optical interference.

Examples of nacres that may be mentioned include nacreous pigments suchas titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, mica coated with bismuthoxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium micacoated with an organic dye especially of the abovementioned type, andalso nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also bemica particles at the surface of which are superimposed at least twosuccessive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic colourants.

The nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze,orange, brown, gold and/or coppery colour or glint.

As illustrations of nacres that may be introduced as interferencepigments into the first composition, mention may be made especially ofthe gold-coloured nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard underthe name Brilliant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparklegold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233× (Cloisonne);the bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the nameBronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by thecompany Engelhard under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orangenacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Orange363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merckunder the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449)(Microna); the brown nacres sold especially by the company Engelhardunder the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509(Chromalite); the nacres with a copper tint sold especially by thecompany Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the nacres with ared tint sold especially by the company Merck under the name Sienna fine(17386) (Colorona); the nacres with a yellow tint sold especially by thecompany Engelhard under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the rednacres with a gold tint sold especially by the company Engelhard underthe name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); the pink nacres sold especially by thecompany Engelhard under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone); the blacknacres with a gold tint sold especially by the company Engelhard underthe name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), the blue nacres soldespecially by the company Merck under the name Matte blue (17433)(Microna), the white nacres with a silvery tint sold especially by thecompany Merck under the name Xirona Silver, and the golden-greenpink-orange nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the nameIndian summer (Xirona), and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention may also be free of dyestuff.According to this embodiment, the composition may be a care composition,preferably for the skin or the lips.

According to this embodiment, the composition according to the inventionmay advantageously be a lip balm.

Fillers

A cosmetic composition used according to the invention may also compriseat least one filler, of organic or mineral nature.

The term “filler” should be understood to mean colourless or white solidparticles of any shape which are in a form that is insoluble anddispersed in the medium of the composition. These particles, of mineralor organic nature, can give body or rigidity to the composition and/orsoftness and uniformity to the makeup. They are different fromdyestuffs.

Among the fillers that may be used in the compositions according to theinvention, mention may be made of silica, kaolin, bentone, starch,lauroyllysine, and fumed silica particles, optionally hydrophilic- orhydrophobic-treated, and mixtures thereof.

A composition used according to the invention may comprise one or morefillers in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight relative to thetotal weight of the composition and in particular from 1% to 10% byweight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at leastone compound chosen from fillers, waxes, pasty fatty substances,semi-crystalline polymers and/or lipophilic gelling agents, and mixturesthereof.

Usual Additional Cosmetic Ingredients

A composition used according to the invention may also comprise anyusual cosmetic ingredient, which may be chosen especially fromantioxidants, additional film-forming polymers (lipophilic orhydrophilic) other than alkylcellulose and in particular ethylcellulose,fragrances, preserving agents, neutralizers, sunscreens, sweeteners,vitamins, free-radical scavengers and sequestrants, and mixturesthereof.

Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to selectthe optional additional ingredients and/or the amount thereof such thatthe advantageous properties of the composition according to theinvention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by theenvisaged addition.

A composition according to the invention may more particularly be acomposition for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, inparticular the lips.

A composition according to the invention may constitute a lipstick forthe lips, a body makeup product, a facial or body care product or anantisun product.

The composition of the invention may be in solid form or in the form ofa more or less thick paste. As illustrations of solid formulations,mention may be made especially of lip balms and lipsticks. They may bein stick form, in a jar or cast in a dish.

By way of illustration, the compositions in the form of a paste (or abutter) may be cast in a jar or in a dish. In the present patentapplication, the composition will be referred to indiscriminantly as abutter or a paste, or alternatively a cream when the composition is morefluid.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the compositionaccording to the invention is an oil-in-water emulsion.

The composition according to the invention may be manufactured via theknown processes generally used in cosmetics or dermatology.

As stated previously, the composition according to the invention ishomogeneous and gives access to a deposit that has good cosmeticproperties, in particular in terms of gloss, comfort (soft, lightdeposit) and absence of tackiness.

The present invention will be understood more clearly by means of theexamples that follow.

These examples are given as illustrations of the invention and cannot beinterpreted as limiting its scope.

EXAMPLES 1 AND 2 Lipsticks in the Form of Butters

The following lipstick compositions were prepared. Compositions 1 and 2according to the invention comprise water, ethylcellulose, a firstnon-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil (octyldodecanol), a secondnon-volatile silicone oil (Belsil 1000), and also a wax and a geminisurfactant.

Example 1 Example 2 according to according to Compounds (Chemical theinvention the invention Name/Commercial Reference) (weight %) (weight %)Ethylcellulose at 26.2% in water; sodium 25 25 lauryl sulfate (1.3%) andcetyl alcohol (2.5%) Aquacoat ECD 30 from FMC Biopolymer Octyldodecanol25 25 Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone 19 19 (Belsil PDM 1000 fromWacker) Behenyl alcohol (and) glyceryl stearate 3 3 (and) disodiumethylene dicocamide PEG- 15 disulfate (and) glyceryl stearate citrate(Ceralution H from Sasol) Steareth-20 (Brij S20-PA-(SG) from the 1 1company Croda) Steareth-100/PEG-136/HDI Copolymer 0.2 (Rheolate FX 1100from Elementis) Polymethylene wax (Cirebelle 303 from 3 3 Cirebelle)Polymethylene wax (Cirebelle 505 from 6 6 Cirebelle) Hydroxypropyl guar(Jaguar HP 105 from 0.2 0.2 Rhodia) Cetyl alcohol 4 4 Phenoxyethanol 0.50.5 Blue 1 0.005 0.005 Red 33 0.05 0.05 Red 40 0.1 0.1 Water qs 100 qs100 Total: 100 100

Preparation Protocol:

-   -   1) The fatty phase (the wax) was heated to 75° C. in the phenyl        silicone oil in a heating pan.    -   2) The surfactant Ceralution H was added and the mixture was        stirred at 60° C. until homogeneous.    -   3) The ethylcellulose and the octyldodecanol were poured into a        beaker. The mixture was then stirred using a Rayneri-type        deflocculator for 1 hour at 55° C., followed by addition of the        water, the Steareth-20, the thickeners, the preserving agent and        the dyes, and the mixture was stirred with the Rayneri        deflocculator at 55° C. until a homogeneous mixture was        obtained.    -   4) This mixture was then poured into the fatty phase and stirred        (Rayneri deflocculator) until a homogeneous mixture was        obtained.    -   5) It was finally cast into jars 3.3 cm in diameter. The jars        were then left to cool to room temperature.        After 24 hours at room temperature, the compositions obtained        were evaluated and their viscosity was measured according to the        protocol described previously.        The stability of the compositions was evaluated by placing the        compositions obtained for 72 hours at 24° C. and for 72 hours at        45° C. The compositions were especially checked to see if phase        separation, the formation of grains or collapse was observed in        the case of solid compositions, or if a variation in viscosity        was observed in the case of compositions in butter form.

Example 1 According Example 2 Evaluation of the to the According to theCompositions invention invention Appearance of the The composition isThe composition is uniform composition uniform and stable at and stableat 24° C. and at 24° C. and at 45° C. 45° C. Form of the Butter in a jarButter in a jar 33 mm in composition 33 mm in diameter diameterViscosity of the 3.8 Pa · s 4.5 Pa · s composition (Pa · s)

Compositions 1 and 2 according to the invention produced a lipstick inthe form of a lip butter. The compositions obtained are homogeneous.

Each of the compositions was applied to the lips using an applicator offoam gloss type so as to form a deposit of uniform thickness; the easeof application and the appearance of the deposit were evaluated.Furthermore, the tacky nature of the deposit was evaluated during dryingof the formulation after 2 minutes at room temperature (25° C.). To dothis, a finger was applied, after the specified drying time, onto theapplied formula and the tack was assessed by the person on removal ofhis finger from the applied formulation.

For compositions 1 and 2 according to the invention, the application tothe lips is easy (glidant on application and soft composition). Thedeposits obtained are homogeneous, light and fresh. Furthermore, thedeposits obtained are sparingly tacky, do not migrate and aresatisfactorily glossy. The deposits obtained on the lips give a freshsensation.

EXAMPLE 3 Solid Lipstick

The following lipstick composition according to the invention wasprepared. Composition 3 according to the invention comprises water,ethylcellulose, a first non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(octyldodecanol), a second non-volatile silicone oil (Belsil 1000), andalso a wax and a gemini surfactant.

Example 3 according to the invention Compounds (Chemical Name/CommercialReference) (weight %) Ethylcellulose at 26.2% in water; sodium laurylsulfate 22 (1.3%) and cetyl alcohol (2.5%) Aquacoat ECD 30 from FMCBiopolymer Octyldodecanol 22 Steareth-20 (Brij S20-PA-(SG) from thecompany 1 Croda) Cetyl alcohol 4 Behenyl alcohol (and) glyceryl stearate(and) disodium 6 ethylene dicocamide PEG-15 disulfate (and) glycerylstearate citrate (Ceralution H from Sasol) Polymethylene wax (Cirebelle303 from Cirebelle) 10 Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone (Belsil PDM1000 19 from Wacker) Candelilla wax (Candelilla Wax SP 75 G from Strahl& 2 Pitsch) Bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane (Dow Corning 3 2501Cosmetic Wax from Dow Corning) Phenoxyethanol 0.5 Water qs 100 Red 7 5TOTAL: 100

Composition 3 was obtained according to the following protocol:

-   -   1) The pigments were ground in the phenyl silicone oil.    -   2) The fatty phase (the waxes, the Ceralution H, the cetyl        alcohol and the phenoxyethanol) were heated to 90° C. in the        pigmented phenyl silicone oil in a heating pan. The mixture was        stirred until homogeneous. It was then left to cool to 65° C.    -   3) The ethylcellulose and the octyldodecanol were placed in a        beaker. They were then stirred with a Rayneri-type deflocculator        for 1 hour at 55° C., followed by addition of the water and the        Steareth-20, and the mixture was stirred with the Rayneri        deflocculator for 10 minutes.    -   4) This mixture was then poured into the fatty phase and stirred        (Rayneri deflocculator) for 10 minutes.    -   5) Finally, the phenoxyethanol was added with stirring.    -   6) The product was finally poured into a mould preheated to 42°        C., to obtain sticks 12.7 mm in diameter. The moulds were then        left to stand for 10 minutes at room temperature, and then        placed in a freezer at −26° C. until they reached a temperature        of 4° C.    -   7) The sticks were then removed from the mould.

After 24 hours at room temperature, the composition obtained wasevaluated and its stability and hardness were measured according to theprotocol described previously.

Example 3 Evaluation of the According to the invention Composition withcandelilla wax Appearance of the composition The composition ishomogeneous and stable at 24° C. and at 45° C. Form of the compositionStick 12.7 mm in diameter Hardness of the composition (Nm⁻¹) 51 Nm⁻¹

Composition 3 according to the invention made it possible to obtain astick of lipstick. The composition obtained is homogeneous, and thesticks obtained are solid enough not to break when they are applied tothe lips.

Furthermore, the stick is easy to apply to the lips (glidant onapplication and soft on application). The deposit obtained ishomogeneous, soft and fresh. Furthermore, the deposit on the lips isglossy and sparingly tacky.

1. A cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptablemedium: water; an alkylcellulose, an alkyl residue of which comprisesbetween 1 and 6 carbon atoms; at least one first hydrocarbon-basednon-volatile oil selected from the group consisting of: a C₁₀ to C₂₆alcohol; an optionally hydroxylated monoester, diester or trimester ofan optionally hydroxylated C₂ to C₈ monocarboxylic or polycarboxylicacid and of a C₂ to C₈ alcohol; and an ester of a C₂ to C₈ polyol and ofone or more C₂ to C₈ carboxylic acids; at least one second non-volatileoil selected from the group consisting of a silicone oil, a fluoro oil,and a hydrocarbon-based oil other than the first hydrocarbon-based oil;a wax; a gemini surfactant of formula (I):

in which: R₁ and R₃ denote, independently of one another, an alkylradical containing comprising from 1 to 25 carbon atoms; R₂ denotes aspacer consisting of a linear or branched alkylene chain containingcomprising from 1 to 12 carbon atoms; X and Y denote, independently ofeach other, a group —(C₂H₄O)_(a)—(C₃H₆O)_(b)Z, where: Z denotes ahydrogen atom or a radical —CH₂—COOM, —SO₃M, —P(O)(OM)₂, —C₂H₄—SO₃M,—C₃H₆—SO₃M or —CH₂(CHOH)₄CH₂OH, where M and M′ represent H or an alkalimetal or alkaline-earth metal or ammonium or alkanolammonium ion, aranges from 0 to 15, b ranges from 0 to 10, and a sum of a+b ranges from1 to 25; and n ranges from 1 to
 10. 2. The composition of claim 1, in aform of an oil-in-water emulsion.
 3. The composition of claim 1, whereinthe gemini surfactant is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20%by weight relative to a total weight of the composition.
 4. Thecomposition of claim 1, wherein the gemini surfactant of formula (I) issuch that each of the groups R₁—CO— and R₃—CO— comprises from 8 to 20carbon atoms and is such that formula (I) has the following structure:


5. The composition of claim 1, wherein the gemini surfactant is mixedwith (a) a C₆-C₂₂ fatty acid ester of glycerol, (b) a diester of aC₆-C₂₂ fatty acid and of citric acid and of glycerol, or (c) a C₁₀-C₃₀fatty alcohol.
 6. The composition of claim 1, wherein the alkylcelluloseis present in a content of between 1% and 60% by weight, relative to atotal weight of the composition.
 7. The composition of claim 1, whereinthe alkylcellulose is selected from the group consisting ofmethylcellulose, ethylcellulose and propylcellulose.
 8. The compositionof claim 1, wherein the second non-volatile oil is a phenyl siliconeoil.
 9. The composition of claim 1, comprising a content ranging from 5%to 75% by weight of the second non-volatile oil by weight, relative to atotal weight of the composition.
 10. The composition of claim 1, whereinthe first hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oil is a C₁₀ to C₂₆monoalcohol.
 11. The composition of claim 1, wherein the firsthydrocarbon-based non-volatile oil is octyldodecanol.
 12. Thecomposition of claim 1, wherein the first hydrocarbon-based non-volatileoil is present in a content ranging from 5% to 75% by weight relative toa total weight of the composition.
 13. The composition of claim 1,wherein the first hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oil and thealkylcellulose are present in the composition in a weight ratio of oilto alkylcellulose of between 0.5 and
 20. 14. The composition of claim 1,comprising between 2% and 80% by weight of water, relative to a totalweight of the composition.
 15. The composition of claim 1, comprising:between 4% and 30% by weight of the alkylcellulose, between 15% and 50%by weight of water, and between 35% and 75% by weight of non-volatileoils.
 16. The composition of claim 1, further comprising an additionalsurfactant other than the gemini surfactant.
 17. The composition ofclaim 16, wherein the additional surfactant is an optionallyoxyalkylenated alcohol.
 18. The composition of claim 1, furthercomprising a dyestuff.
 19. The composition of claim 1, furthercomprising at least one member selected from the group consisting of ahydrophilic gelling agent, a filler, a wax, a pasty fatty substance, asemi-crystalline polymer, and a lipophilic gelling agent.
 20. Thecomposition of claim 1, in a form of a paste or a stick.
 21. Thecomposition of claim 1, in a form of a lipstick or a lip balm.
 22. Acosmetic process comprising applying to the skin and/or the lips thecomposition of claim
 1. 23. (canceled)